Check it out!
(please copy and paste these links into your browser)
http://fellowsblog.kiva.org/2009/08/19/power-to-the-people/
www.nytimes.com/greeninc
Please support our pilot project at www.sunpowerafrique.org!
Thursday, August 20, 2009
Tuesday, August 18, 2009
18 Aout 2009: Making SunPower Afrique Happen!
Working on my own here, it’s sometimes difficult and always stressful to stay on task and complete tasks efficiently – particularly in an environment where a) there is an acceptable synergy between sleep and work and b) it often takes a small miracle to print, download or execute any other seemingly menial electronic task…
However, I am slowly ticking off the items on my ambitious list of goals for this trip. Which makes me trés contente :)
My time in Lomé was not spent only staring at landfills and fanning charcoal to make my morning coffee. I had several very important meetings, all bringing me closer and closer to making this pilot project happen. I can’t describe the overflowing excitement that I feel when I think about it…because with the success of the pilot project, SunPower Afrique will surge forward to achieve its goals much more easily – with a concrete project installed on the ground. People will believe me, and they will believe in solar.
1. The CNM
In Lomé I met with Jacques, the Director of Operations at the CNM (National Microfinance Committee), who has proven himself to be a helpful and faithful partner. I briefed him on project’s development, including fundraising, the terms of the “Solar Loan” product, relationships with partners and status of official documents (receipt of my 501(c)(3) and my recepissé…) Jacques mentioned that he had heard wind of some other solar projects being undertaken by a Canadian NGO, an international organization, etc. and that I should hurry to be the first to have something in place on the ground – therefore being recognized as “the first” by the Togolese government. Even more urgency and momentum to SunPower Afrique!
I also shared with Jacques a Memorandum of Understanding that I hope to sign, between SunPower Afrique and the CNM, displaying proof of our cooperative partnership and commitment to work together to achieve both the goals of SunPower Afrique’s programs for MFIs in Togo, but also the goals of the National Strategy for Microfinance in Togo (modernization and informatisation in particular – both greatly supported by reliable, solar electricity!)
2. M. Lare & Training
I also met in Lomé with M. Lare, who will assist with our training program as a Togolese representative and “language liaison” to complement the expertise of Jon (and hopefully Ron C!) Importantly, M. Lare and I also discussed that we will not be taking this project to any ministers or government associations just yet…the political environment here is a complex, multifaceted and fascinating animal. One must allez trés trés doucement…
I also sent messages my other contacts for training in Togo, to discuss the expansion of training programs to technical schools and even the University of Lomé. This is further down the road, but it’s never too soon to get sharp minds on the same page.
3. CECAV-Avenir and the Solar Loan Program
Here in Kpalimé I have been meeting with Daniel, the DG of FECECAV and the champion of solar for MFIs in Togo, who I cannot thank enough for his vision and commitment to piloting SunPower Afrique’s programs with his institution. Daniel and I have chosen a date and started advertising for my presentation to FECECAV staff and clients at the end of the month, drafted and accepted a Memorandum of Understanding. (NB: Interestingly, while Daniel believes in SunPower Afrique, he insisted on adding an “Article 4: Annullment”, which states that “If the PV systems installed by SunPower Afrique do not work, this contract is null and void.” I added it, because this is not a fear I share with my Togolese counterparts. And if we cannot live up to this, what are we doing here anyway?)
SunPower Afrique posters now hang in the CECAV-Avenir salon, and SunPower Afrique Solar Loan pamphlets are at the cash window and in Inno’s office, where most clients frequent. I have already had several inquiries, but it is true, this market will take a while to develop and outreach and sensibilisation will be a massive undertaking…
I also presented to Daniel a draft of the description and terms of the “Solar Loan” – guaranties and collateral, loan terms and interest rates, etc. – which we will continue to finesse and eventually sign a mutally agreeable contract before I leave in September. This document is a huge step forward in making the Solar Loan portion of SunPower Afrique’s project a reality.
4. Abby the Kiva Fellows Blog
In addition to this work with my Togolese partners, there is news on another front. A Kiva Fellow Alum named Abby Gray, who worked in Togo as a Fellow at the same time as I did last year (with different MFIs,) has taken an interest in my project and offered to help me with publicity. She came up with the idea of posting an article on the Kiva Fellows Blog about SunPower Afrique. She then took the initiative to go straight to Kiva and pitch the idea –and they said yes! She has written an incredibly well-composed, inspiring article that will hopefully appear in front of Kiva enthusiasts worldwide! This will be fantastic exposure and I CANNOT thank her enough :) I will post the link to the blog as soon as it becomes available.
5. Darren, Claude and the New York Times!
Thanks to my dear friend Megan Rhodes, Togo PCV Alum (whose work with Chantal and Aklala Batik – www.akala.blogspot.com – has transformed a tiny batik business in Togo into a thriving, internationally known enterprise), I have been connected to a PCV named Darren Legge. Before coming to Togo, Darren was a solar installer in Colorado with Standard Renewables, and is, like me, inspired by the prospects for solar in Togo. Not only has he been working with a man who is starting a renewable energy business (wind and solar), here in Kpalimé and in Atakpamé (Claude Amouzou-Togo of TOGO-ENERGY, with whom I hope to partner in a serious way…) but Darren managed to get a link to my website into an article about solar in Africa in the New York Times!
See here for the article: www.nytimes.com/greeninc
SunPower Afrique has gone NY Times. Yessss. Akpe ka ka ka siaaa.
However, I am slowly ticking off the items on my ambitious list of goals for this trip. Which makes me trés contente :)
My time in Lomé was not spent only staring at landfills and fanning charcoal to make my morning coffee. I had several very important meetings, all bringing me closer and closer to making this pilot project happen. I can’t describe the overflowing excitement that I feel when I think about it…because with the success of the pilot project, SunPower Afrique will surge forward to achieve its goals much more easily – with a concrete project installed on the ground. People will believe me, and they will believe in solar.
1. The CNM
In Lomé I met with Jacques, the Director of Operations at the CNM (National Microfinance Committee), who has proven himself to be a helpful and faithful partner. I briefed him on project’s development, including fundraising, the terms of the “Solar Loan” product, relationships with partners and status of official documents (receipt of my 501(c)(3) and my recepissé…) Jacques mentioned that he had heard wind of some other solar projects being undertaken by a Canadian NGO, an international organization, etc. and that I should hurry to be the first to have something in place on the ground – therefore being recognized as “the first” by the Togolese government. Even more urgency and momentum to SunPower Afrique!
I also shared with Jacques a Memorandum of Understanding that I hope to sign, between SunPower Afrique and the CNM, displaying proof of our cooperative partnership and commitment to work together to achieve both the goals of SunPower Afrique’s programs for MFIs in Togo, but also the goals of the National Strategy for Microfinance in Togo (modernization and informatisation in particular – both greatly supported by reliable, solar electricity!)
2. M. Lare & Training
I also met in Lomé with M. Lare, who will assist with our training program as a Togolese representative and “language liaison” to complement the expertise of Jon (and hopefully Ron C!) Importantly, M. Lare and I also discussed that we will not be taking this project to any ministers or government associations just yet…the political environment here is a complex, multifaceted and fascinating animal. One must allez trés trés doucement…
I also sent messages my other contacts for training in Togo, to discuss the expansion of training programs to technical schools and even the University of Lomé. This is further down the road, but it’s never too soon to get sharp minds on the same page.
3. CECAV-Avenir and the Solar Loan Program
Here in Kpalimé I have been meeting with Daniel, the DG of FECECAV and the champion of solar for MFIs in Togo, who I cannot thank enough for his vision and commitment to piloting SunPower Afrique’s programs with his institution. Daniel and I have chosen a date and started advertising for my presentation to FECECAV staff and clients at the end of the month, drafted and accepted a Memorandum of Understanding. (NB: Interestingly, while Daniel believes in SunPower Afrique, he insisted on adding an “Article 4: Annullment”, which states that “If the PV systems installed by SunPower Afrique do not work, this contract is null and void.” I added it, because this is not a fear I share with my Togolese counterparts. And if we cannot live up to this, what are we doing here anyway?)
SunPower Afrique posters now hang in the CECAV-Avenir salon, and SunPower Afrique Solar Loan pamphlets are at the cash window and in Inno’s office, where most clients frequent. I have already had several inquiries, but it is true, this market will take a while to develop and outreach and sensibilisation will be a massive undertaking…
I also presented to Daniel a draft of the description and terms of the “Solar Loan” – guaranties and collateral, loan terms and interest rates, etc. – which we will continue to finesse and eventually sign a mutally agreeable contract before I leave in September. This document is a huge step forward in making the Solar Loan portion of SunPower Afrique’s project a reality.
4. Abby the Kiva Fellows Blog
In addition to this work with my Togolese partners, there is news on another front. A Kiva Fellow Alum named Abby Gray, who worked in Togo as a Fellow at the same time as I did last year (with different MFIs,) has taken an interest in my project and offered to help me with publicity. She came up with the idea of posting an article on the Kiva Fellows Blog about SunPower Afrique. She then took the initiative to go straight to Kiva and pitch the idea –and they said yes! She has written an incredibly well-composed, inspiring article that will hopefully appear in front of Kiva enthusiasts worldwide! This will be fantastic exposure and I CANNOT thank her enough :) I will post the link to the blog as soon as it becomes available.
5. Darren, Claude and the New York Times!
Thanks to my dear friend Megan Rhodes, Togo PCV Alum (whose work with Chantal and Aklala Batik – www.akala.blogspot.com – has transformed a tiny batik business in Togo into a thriving, internationally known enterprise), I have been connected to a PCV named Darren Legge. Before coming to Togo, Darren was a solar installer in Colorado with Standard Renewables, and is, like me, inspired by the prospects for solar in Togo. Not only has he been working with a man who is starting a renewable energy business (wind and solar), here in Kpalimé and in Atakpamé (Claude Amouzou-Togo of TOGO-ENERGY, with whom I hope to partner in a serious way…) but Darren managed to get a link to my website into an article about solar in Africa in the New York Times!
See here for the article: www.nytimes.com/greeninc
SunPower Afrique has gone NY Times. Yessss. Akpe ka ka ka siaaa.
Monday, August 17, 2009
15-17 Aout 2009 ~ Togo Togo
Nothing like a weekend in Lomé to generate an even deeper appreciation for my lovely Kpalimé…and to remind me both how poor and underdeveloped Togo really is, but also why I love this country so much.
Lomé is filthy. Open sewers line the dusty streets, clogged not only with human and g-d knows what else’s excrement, but plastic bags, cans and months (if not years…) of an overpopulated city’s worth of garbage. Driving past the lagoon you almost have to hold your breath, the smell of waste and rot is so potent…and just across the street, children run around barefoot (or naked if they’re not so lucky,) rilfing through heaps of trash in the hopes of finding 100CFA buried in the sand or a piece of scrap metal or broken electronic to resell. Everything moves. Everything makes noise.
Life in Lomé is twice/three-times as expensive as in any village or town in Togo. Life is difficult and dusty and dirty and hot. And yet everyone wants to come here, live here, be able to tell their frères and soeurs that they live in the capital. Like much of the world, the city reek of opportunity, growth, modernization and purpose, but Lomé is a bizarre paradox of these qualities, having crumbled to its knees in the past 20 years due to the pathetic loss of all foreign aid. It is tragic in the full sense of the word, it is hard to see and it breaks my heart.
Because the pride is still there. Everyone is always smiling and life moves goes on with laughter and love, pure joy, of life. Togo is a special place and despite my continually rising cynicism for international development, the culture of aid and “good governance,” I will never give up hope for the Togolese people – because they are the most wonderful and resilient that I have ever known. Despite my increasingly angry intolerance for the “Hiss Yovo VA!” (Come here white girl!) and gangs of voleurs and bandits that burn holes in my backpack with their eyes…we should all take a few lessons from the Togolese on how to enjoy life and good plate of fufu. And they know it! They take pride in their “accueil” (welcoming) and take the corruption of their government and society, which trickles down to every radio emission and every sale at the marché, in stunning stride.
Sometimes I completely freak out about what I am trying to do here…the fact that I went to get my recepissé from the Minister of Decentralization and his aide, M. Honore, who walks with a limp and an overconfident flicker in his beady eyes, with whom I left the complete file 9 months ago, hasn’t even looked at it yet…but agreed to take a peek if I gave him 15,000CFA (about $40) and, if I was really interested in getting a receipt for this, I should slip another 10,000 in there for good measure.
The fact that uploading this very blog is such a production…which I am writing in word while waiting for the page the upload…ever so slowly…I am at one of the cyber cafés in Kpalimé right now (the only one worth paying for…haha), just finished waiting out a “baisse de tension” aka the opposite of a power surge where all of the computers go down and we wait patiently (or not so patiently…) for them to first turn back on and second for internet connection to come back…
But those are only material, immediate things. It is difficult to be so deeply enmeshed in my project and my field work knowing that I am here only for a month, that my other life is waiting for me (and important work and contacts and projects and emails and proposals and applications and meetings) and that this duplicity is constantly pulling at me. Obliging complicated and painful thoughts about the true meaning of commitment and success of this venture.
Lomé is filthy. Open sewers line the dusty streets, clogged not only with human and g-d knows what else’s excrement, but plastic bags, cans and months (if not years…) of an overpopulated city’s worth of garbage. Driving past the lagoon you almost have to hold your breath, the smell of waste and rot is so potent…and just across the street, children run around barefoot (or naked if they’re not so lucky,) rilfing through heaps of trash in the hopes of finding 100CFA buried in the sand or a piece of scrap metal or broken electronic to resell. Everything moves. Everything makes noise.
Life in Lomé is twice/three-times as expensive as in any village or town in Togo. Life is difficult and dusty and dirty and hot. And yet everyone wants to come here, live here, be able to tell their frères and soeurs that they live in the capital. Like much of the world, the city reek of opportunity, growth, modernization and purpose, but Lomé is a bizarre paradox of these qualities, having crumbled to its knees in the past 20 years due to the pathetic loss of all foreign aid. It is tragic in the full sense of the word, it is hard to see and it breaks my heart.
Because the pride is still there. Everyone is always smiling and life moves goes on with laughter and love, pure joy, of life. Togo is a special place and despite my continually rising cynicism for international development, the culture of aid and “good governance,” I will never give up hope for the Togolese people – because they are the most wonderful and resilient that I have ever known. Despite my increasingly angry intolerance for the “Hiss Yovo VA!” (Come here white girl!) and gangs of voleurs and bandits that burn holes in my backpack with their eyes…we should all take a few lessons from the Togolese on how to enjoy life and good plate of fufu. And they know it! They take pride in their “accueil” (welcoming) and take the corruption of their government and society, which trickles down to every radio emission and every sale at the marché, in stunning stride.
Sometimes I completely freak out about what I am trying to do here…the fact that I went to get my recepissé from the Minister of Decentralization and his aide, M. Honore, who walks with a limp and an overconfident flicker in his beady eyes, with whom I left the complete file 9 months ago, hasn’t even looked at it yet…but agreed to take a peek if I gave him 15,000CFA (about $40) and, if I was really interested in getting a receipt for this, I should slip another 10,000 in there for good measure.
The fact that uploading this very blog is such a production…which I am writing in word while waiting for the page the upload…ever so slowly…I am at one of the cyber cafés in Kpalimé right now (the only one worth paying for…haha), just finished waiting out a “baisse de tension” aka the opposite of a power surge where all of the computers go down and we wait patiently (or not so patiently…) for them to first turn back on and second for internet connection to come back…
But those are only material, immediate things. It is difficult to be so deeply enmeshed in my project and my field work knowing that I am here only for a month, that my other life is waiting for me (and important work and contacts and projects and emails and proposals and applications and meetings) and that this duplicity is constantly pulling at me. Obliging complicated and painful thoughts about the true meaning of commitment and success of this venture.
Thursday, August 13, 2009
12-13 August 2009: Club Rotary de Kpalimé
The Kpalimé Rotary club has 6 members. They meet every Wednesday at 7pm at Hotel Cristal, in the bar, where 6 plastic chairs are placed in a circle around a 3 small tables pushed together. When I arrived for the meeting, which I had been invited to 2 days earlier by Ephram, the first Togolese Rotarian that I found (or rather, was introduced to me by a friend at FECECAV) the electricity had already been out for about 30 minutes and people were milling about the hotel lobby with cellphones and flashlights. People always seem to speak more quietly and move more slowly when there is a coupure.
In the bar, a small and empty room off of the lobby, the Rotarians started to trickle in at about 7:15. Soon the Rotary bell was placed on the table and the now familiar practice of hand shaking, snapping, nodding and comment cava-ing took place. I find it very special that no matter where in the world you find yourself, in Collegeville, PA or in Kpalimé, Togo, you can find this Rotary bell and the same vibe of comradery and routine.
The president of the club is Angelique, a friendly yet reserved woman who owns and operates a restaurant near Petit Suisse called Le Gourmet. Out of the 6 members, I was very surprised to learn that 3 are women! And even more surprised when I was introduced to Angelique as the president – who ever said that African Rotary clubs are not progressive have never been to Kpalimé.
All members of the club arrived at the meeting in full Rotary garb – meaning they were all dressed in shirts made from “Rotary Pagnes” (yes this exists! They are yellow, blue and red, covered with Rotary symbolism and stamped with District 9100) and carrying folders with Rotary logos. I pointed at my Rotary pin and felt embarrassed that I had completely forgotten to bring them the Collegeville Club flag…(I will have to mail this to them at some later date.)
With 6 flashlights pointed directly at my face, Angelique introduced me to club (Ephram has introduced me to her before the meeting) and then went, in archetypal Togolese fashion, on to her agenda, whose procedure appeared even more exaggerated than l normally perceive them at such gatherings, when combined with the formalities of Rotary (can you imagine? ) I squinted and smiled, introducing myself as Kira Costanza, Club Rotary de Collegeville, Pennsylvanie, classification Energie Solaire.
Angelique started with “Pensees du Jour” (Thoughts of the Day), and when no one answered, I decided that they should know now rather than later that when no one speaks up, it will always be me! I thanked them for inviting me and said something about being excited to tell them about my ideas for partnership between my club and theirs. Angelique then recounted the birthdays of members of the club that had taken place that week – none – while the others around the table chatted amongst themselves. Angelique then moved on to the next item on her agenda but was interrupted by the man sitting to my right, Horace (who I quickly learned might be the only one in the club who rivals my talkative-ness) loudly said that he hadn’t heard the birthday announcements. Byll, to my right, muttered that he had been too busy staring at me…Angelique smiled and said, ok, I will recount this week’s birthdays, and then stopped, took a breath and said: none. Everyone laughed.
When I met Ephram for the first time he told me that their club is tiny, but they are close. Recruitment is difficult in Kpalimé, where many are unfamiliar with Rotary and, therefore (as usual with something that is unknown or different) people think it is some kind of sect or otherwise mysterious faction...his favorite thing about Rotary? The opportunities that it has given him to travel throughout West Africa. What a great thing.
Halfway through the meeting, the lights came back on, drinks were served, and a TV in the corner of the room flashed back on to loud static, which no one but me seemed to notice…Angelique talked over it, reading an email out loud from the Rotary Foundation and asking Byll to give the weekly report. Byll kindly asked that we come back to him - which we never did.
I was then asked to present myself, my project and why I was there. I circulated SunPower Afrique materials, the letter in French signed by the president of my club in PA and my certificate of membership. I have given my “schpeel” so many times now that you would think that it has become so habitual that it risks appearing banal and impersonal – not so! Particularly here in Togo, particularly in the context of Rotary, where my passion, motivation and sincerity seem to shine through my yovo skin and light eyes. I do not take this for granted.
They asked many questions, each having their own personal interests of course, which I tried to circumvent (as usual…) and explain the larger vision of SunPower Afrique and my interests in collaborating with Rotary clubs in Togo, particularly in Kpalimé. We spoke at length, got to know each other a bit, and I was invited back next week (more than invited actually – told that as a Rotarian I am obligated to come back every week while I am here in Kpalimé!)
The club in Kpalimé in keen to form an official partnership with us in Collegeville, which is a great start to a collaboration with District 9100, allowing us to match funds through Rotary International. It will take time of course, but the initial seeds have been sown. I am also excited to help the club in Kpalimé recruit more members through an international partnership and exposure through SunPower Afrique (if I may be so vain…)
This morning I went to see Angelique at her restaurant, at her request, where she gave me a Rotary pagne. I am to have it made into a shirt for next week’s meeting.
In light of some recent “issues” with one of my partners here in Togo, making it even more difficult than usual to know who to trust (while I am never alone, and am forever grateful to my partners on all sides of the ocean, being a female yovo trying to pull off a big project in Africa is infinitely complex…), I am very happy to have met a group of individuals that I feel connected to and in whom I can authentically instill some confidence.
I will try to send some photos of us in our Rotary shirts next week. Hope all is well back at Mooreheads and see you soon! :)
In the bar, a small and empty room off of the lobby, the Rotarians started to trickle in at about 7:15. Soon the Rotary bell was placed on the table and the now familiar practice of hand shaking, snapping, nodding and comment cava-ing took place. I find it very special that no matter where in the world you find yourself, in Collegeville, PA or in Kpalimé, Togo, you can find this Rotary bell and the same vibe of comradery and routine.
The president of the club is Angelique, a friendly yet reserved woman who owns and operates a restaurant near Petit Suisse called Le Gourmet. Out of the 6 members, I was very surprised to learn that 3 are women! And even more surprised when I was introduced to Angelique as the president – who ever said that African Rotary clubs are not progressive have never been to Kpalimé.
All members of the club arrived at the meeting in full Rotary garb – meaning they were all dressed in shirts made from “Rotary Pagnes” (yes this exists! They are yellow, blue and red, covered with Rotary symbolism and stamped with District 9100) and carrying folders with Rotary logos. I pointed at my Rotary pin and felt embarrassed that I had completely forgotten to bring them the Collegeville Club flag…(I will have to mail this to them at some later date.)
With 6 flashlights pointed directly at my face, Angelique introduced me to club (Ephram has introduced me to her before the meeting) and then went, in archetypal Togolese fashion, on to her agenda, whose procedure appeared even more exaggerated than l normally perceive them at such gatherings, when combined with the formalities of Rotary (can you imagine? ) I squinted and smiled, introducing myself as Kira Costanza, Club Rotary de Collegeville, Pennsylvanie, classification Energie Solaire.
Angelique started with “Pensees du Jour” (Thoughts of the Day), and when no one answered, I decided that they should know now rather than later that when no one speaks up, it will always be me! I thanked them for inviting me and said something about being excited to tell them about my ideas for partnership between my club and theirs. Angelique then recounted the birthdays of members of the club that had taken place that week – none – while the others around the table chatted amongst themselves. Angelique then moved on to the next item on her agenda but was interrupted by the man sitting to my right, Horace (who I quickly learned might be the only one in the club who rivals my talkative-ness) loudly said that he hadn’t heard the birthday announcements. Byll, to my right, muttered that he had been too busy staring at me…Angelique smiled and said, ok, I will recount this week’s birthdays, and then stopped, took a breath and said: none. Everyone laughed.
When I met Ephram for the first time he told me that their club is tiny, but they are close. Recruitment is difficult in Kpalimé, where many are unfamiliar with Rotary and, therefore (as usual with something that is unknown or different) people think it is some kind of sect or otherwise mysterious faction...his favorite thing about Rotary? The opportunities that it has given him to travel throughout West Africa. What a great thing.
Halfway through the meeting, the lights came back on, drinks were served, and a TV in the corner of the room flashed back on to loud static, which no one but me seemed to notice…Angelique talked over it, reading an email out loud from the Rotary Foundation and asking Byll to give the weekly report. Byll kindly asked that we come back to him - which we never did.
I was then asked to present myself, my project and why I was there. I circulated SunPower Afrique materials, the letter in French signed by the president of my club in PA and my certificate of membership. I have given my “schpeel” so many times now that you would think that it has become so habitual that it risks appearing banal and impersonal – not so! Particularly here in Togo, particularly in the context of Rotary, where my passion, motivation and sincerity seem to shine through my yovo skin and light eyes. I do not take this for granted.
They asked many questions, each having their own personal interests of course, which I tried to circumvent (as usual…) and explain the larger vision of SunPower Afrique and my interests in collaborating with Rotary clubs in Togo, particularly in Kpalimé. We spoke at length, got to know each other a bit, and I was invited back next week (more than invited actually – told that as a Rotarian I am obligated to come back every week while I am here in Kpalimé!)
The club in Kpalimé in keen to form an official partnership with us in Collegeville, which is a great start to a collaboration with District 9100, allowing us to match funds through Rotary International. It will take time of course, but the initial seeds have been sown. I am also excited to help the club in Kpalimé recruit more members through an international partnership and exposure through SunPower Afrique (if I may be so vain…)
This morning I went to see Angelique at her restaurant, at her request, where she gave me a Rotary pagne. I am to have it made into a shirt for next week’s meeting.
In light of some recent “issues” with one of my partners here in Togo, making it even more difficult than usual to know who to trust (while I am never alone, and am forever grateful to my partners on all sides of the ocean, being a female yovo trying to pull off a big project in Africa is infinitely complex…), I am very happy to have met a group of individuals that I feel connected to and in whom I can authentically instill some confidence.
I will try to send some photos of us in our Rotary shirts next week. Hope all is well back at Mooreheads and see you soon! :)
Tuesday, August 11, 2009
10 August 2009: Moov-ing Backwards?
On the radio this morning the familiar crackling voice of PeaceFM announced that, due to a massive hike in taxes on their operations, Moov, the (only) independent cellphone service provider in Togo, will cease its operations in the country. Hours later, the logo, name and service bars disappeared from cellphones throughout Togo. Togocell, the state-run provider has once again retained its monopoly on telecommunications, having swiftly eliminated its competition with a stroke of the bureaucratic (and not so proverbial) pen.
To me this is very disappointing…what with my preconceived notions of democracy, free markets and unfettered capitalism… Inno just chuckled and said “quel comedie.” Togo, having taken leaps (understood in the proper context of course…) towards democratic systems of not only governance but economic growth in the past 10 years, seems to be stumbling. Interestingly, this is all happening months before elections in 2010. Is there more than one candidate? Definitely not. HOWEVER, I did watch a music video last night in which a Togolese rapper, S-Jev, defiantly reprimanded the government for the poverty and poor health of its population, deplorable infrastructure and corruption. Under the previous regime this would not have been allowed and S-Jev would have been imprisoned faster than he could have asked for another ball of fufu – so there is indeed an increased sense and semblance of civil liberties.
It seems however that this forward movement is being staved off in the world of commerce. Which is not necessarily good news for SunPower Afrique! I have, in my backpack, a photocopied decree from the Minister of Ports, citing that all solar equipment can be imported into the country without taxes. I have mentioned this before, but want to reiterate what a big deal this is for a country with no natural resources, that therefore relies hugely on import taxes. Once again I question my idealism – will a piece of paper in a yovo’s hands actually mean anything? If the government can snuff out Moov, it can surely make the work of a startup nonprofit quite challenging….I will be taking a tour of the Port of Lomé in the next few weeks, and am carefully calculating my approach towards the presentation of this document to the appropriate individual…
I have also been repeatedly told that my “recepisse” (my documentation to legally operate my business/NGO in Togo) is waiting for my signature at the Minister of Decentralization. I will go to find it on Friday – wish me luck!
* * *
After watching the evening news and asking everyone I see whether they think Moov will be back, it appears that the Togolese government is in the process of “negotiating” a new contract…we shall see…in the interim, those with the means to do so have all run out and bought Togocell sim cards.
It was an interesting day in Togo, not only this fiasco with Moov, but the government also unveiled its new passports, which have been issued in order to “modernize their travel documents.” All citizens wishing to leave the country must now buy a new passport (30,000CFA/about $60), as the old ones are no longer valid.
It poured rain for 3 hours yesterday afternoon, prohibiting me from getting back to CECAV-Avenir (I am telling you, you have never seen such a downpour…) Inno and I sat outside on wooden stools, enjoying the cool misty air, sharing a tiny glass or sodabi and talking about politics and mysticism. We talked about the attempted coup-d’état that took place 3 months ago, which now has the president’s brother and his assorted, foreign military wing, armed with Chinese rifles, imprisoned in Lomé. About the chain of corruption and theft that prevents bridges from being built and trickles down to even the most honest and well-intentioned citizens…about tradition and modernization and what lies in between.
Many potential investors and MBA advisors have told me I paint too rosy a picture of Togo – as a haven of democracy and liberalism in the midst of the corruption of West Africa. However, I always do my best to present an accurate description of this country, and I will continue to do so. This is Africa, and it is with hints of cynicism and heaps of idealism (both necessary to fully comprehend the complex dynamics of both culture and politics) that I believe in Togo. Two steps forward, one step back, mais CA VA ALLER.
To me this is very disappointing…what with my preconceived notions of democracy, free markets and unfettered capitalism… Inno just chuckled and said “quel comedie.” Togo, having taken leaps (understood in the proper context of course…) towards democratic systems of not only governance but economic growth in the past 10 years, seems to be stumbling. Interestingly, this is all happening months before elections in 2010. Is there more than one candidate? Definitely not. HOWEVER, I did watch a music video last night in which a Togolese rapper, S-Jev, defiantly reprimanded the government for the poverty and poor health of its population, deplorable infrastructure and corruption. Under the previous regime this would not have been allowed and S-Jev would have been imprisoned faster than he could have asked for another ball of fufu – so there is indeed an increased sense and semblance of civil liberties.
It seems however that this forward movement is being staved off in the world of commerce. Which is not necessarily good news for SunPower Afrique! I have, in my backpack, a photocopied decree from the Minister of Ports, citing that all solar equipment can be imported into the country without taxes. I have mentioned this before, but want to reiterate what a big deal this is for a country with no natural resources, that therefore relies hugely on import taxes. Once again I question my idealism – will a piece of paper in a yovo’s hands actually mean anything? If the government can snuff out Moov, it can surely make the work of a startup nonprofit quite challenging….I will be taking a tour of the Port of Lomé in the next few weeks, and am carefully calculating my approach towards the presentation of this document to the appropriate individual…
I have also been repeatedly told that my “recepisse” (my documentation to legally operate my business/NGO in Togo) is waiting for my signature at the Minister of Decentralization. I will go to find it on Friday – wish me luck!
* * *
After watching the evening news and asking everyone I see whether they think Moov will be back, it appears that the Togolese government is in the process of “negotiating” a new contract…we shall see…in the interim, those with the means to do so have all run out and bought Togocell sim cards.
It was an interesting day in Togo, not only this fiasco with Moov, but the government also unveiled its new passports, which have been issued in order to “modernize their travel documents.” All citizens wishing to leave the country must now buy a new passport (30,000CFA/about $60), as the old ones are no longer valid.
It poured rain for 3 hours yesterday afternoon, prohibiting me from getting back to CECAV-Avenir (I am telling you, you have never seen such a downpour…) Inno and I sat outside on wooden stools, enjoying the cool misty air, sharing a tiny glass or sodabi and talking about politics and mysticism. We talked about the attempted coup-d’état that took place 3 months ago, which now has the president’s brother and his assorted, foreign military wing, armed with Chinese rifles, imprisoned in Lomé. About the chain of corruption and theft that prevents bridges from being built and trickles down to even the most honest and well-intentioned citizens…about tradition and modernization and what lies in between.
Many potential investors and MBA advisors have told me I paint too rosy a picture of Togo – as a haven of democracy and liberalism in the midst of the corruption of West Africa. However, I always do my best to present an accurate description of this country, and I will continue to do so. This is Africa, and it is with hints of cynicism and heaps of idealism (both necessary to fully comprehend the complex dynamics of both culture and politics) that I believe in Togo. Two steps forward, one step back, mais CA VA ALLER.
Sunday, August 9, 2009
Sweet Home Togo
Kpalimé is the exactly the same. Except that the roads have been completely destroyed from flooding and rain. Even the main streets are a maze of potholes, ranging in size from a plate to a small house. It is interesting how this, my third time back, illuminates even more clearly the utter lack of progress and stagnancy of development…at FECECAV I can always see tiny steps forwards and small but significant inklings of growth, but on a larger scale, Togo stays in one place.
Le voyage was long…after a minor visa fiasco in New York (where I was barred from the airplane because I didn’t have a pre-purchased Ghanaian transit visa – which you used to be able to buy upon arrival in Accra – and had to spend an extra day in Manhattan kow-towing to the sluggish staff at the Ghanaian embassy…) I arrived in Accra on the morning of the 6th. I met a great girl on the place from a company called InfraCo, which does energy infrastructure projects in Africa – how fortuitous!
We traveled by bus to Ho, near the Togo border, where we piled into a classic African van, with a fractured windshield held together by a “Thank You Jesus” sticker, a back door propped open with piece of bamboo and a shell so rusted out that I was completed amazed (as usual) that with each pothole we didn’t all fall straight through. I am used to it now, but I still don’t understand the physics of these vehicles…how they run and stay in one piece. The mechanics here are literal magicians…
I have been in Kpalime for 3 days now, have met 2 yovo volunteers at FECECAV (one from SIDI, another development organization that send $$ to FECECAV at 6% interest and one from Kiva, a new fellow who immediately told me how much she hates Kpalime…) There are in fact many yovos here in Kpalime right now, harkening back to the days when Togo was a tourism hotspot. I am told that this is the “season of the Yovos” – aka summer vacation time. Hilarious.
I have eaten lots of fufu already (delicious! J) and talked extensively with Daniel (the CEO of FECECAV) and Aminou (my Kpalimé electrician and head of the solar team we will train during the pilot project.) I bought a motorcycle battery to hook up my solar panel demo, and it is currently chez le mecanicien charging up. Batteries here are bought without acid, and you must them take it to the mechanic to fill it up – where the mechanic removes some acid from another battery, mixes it with filthy water, tests it to see if it’s good, and, barehanded, spilling it all over his little brother’s feet and the oily ground of his workstation, adds it to the battery with a turkey baster. (I just tried in vain for 15 minutes to upload pictures of this, amongst a few others, but the internet connection is just not having it)
Everyone is impatient for the pilot project, and keep asking where is Mister Jon, when will we “installer les pannaux solaires”? I admire their trust in me and their endurance – not only because so many leave empty promises all over this continent, but also that nowhere but in Africa can I find this type of patience and resilience. I have made an impression on them and, since I am back again, this time with a panel, with documents to sign and posters to hang in their office, they are content to continue waiting for SunPower Afrique. I do not take it for granted and I will not let them down! Aminou as well, is so anxious to get started, and nervous that several solar panel installers have cropped up throughout the country (Chinese…) and that he will miss his chance. But he too trusts me and waits for his training – I continue to remember why we have decided work with him: his passion and understanding of solar in the context of his life and his country is exemplary and inspiring.
I am planning the next three weeks – pressured to get everything accomplished that I want to in such a short time, also allowing a week or so to travel north with Inno to meet his family and see more of the country. I am somewhat embarrassed to say that throughout my time in Togo, so unlike my adventurous self, I have never been North of Atakpame!
I will spend a week or so in Lome, to have my meetings with the Ministers of Decentralization, Small Business and Energy & Mining. I will also visit the Port of Lomé for a tour, and reconnect with M. Lare, my partner/consultant who currently has himself in quite a state, due to a misunderstanding between himself and Novinyo, another of my partners (a FECECAV manager). Something about “insulting his character” by not giving him a loan that falls far outside FECECAV’s average size for loan disbursal. I must go smooth this over in order to move forward…c’est l’Afrique quoi. Wish me luck.
I promised to keep my blog short this time, and while I’m sure you all long for my long-winded descriptions of the nuances of Togolese culture and the smell of burning plastic, I will spare you – this once :)
Will write again soon, of my plans and programs, and about the evolution of SunPower Afrique on the ground! As Daniel said to me, it becoming plus et plus réale(more and more real.)
Amitiés,
K
Le voyage was long…after a minor visa fiasco in New York (where I was barred from the airplane because I didn’t have a pre-purchased Ghanaian transit visa – which you used to be able to buy upon arrival in Accra – and had to spend an extra day in Manhattan kow-towing to the sluggish staff at the Ghanaian embassy…) I arrived in Accra on the morning of the 6th. I met a great girl on the place from a company called InfraCo, which does energy infrastructure projects in Africa – how fortuitous!
We traveled by bus to Ho, near the Togo border, where we piled into a classic African van, with a fractured windshield held together by a “Thank You Jesus” sticker, a back door propped open with piece of bamboo and a shell so rusted out that I was completed amazed (as usual) that with each pothole we didn’t all fall straight through. I am used to it now, but I still don’t understand the physics of these vehicles…how they run and stay in one piece. The mechanics here are literal magicians…
I have been in Kpalime for 3 days now, have met 2 yovo volunteers at FECECAV (one from SIDI, another development organization that send $$ to FECECAV at 6% interest and one from Kiva, a new fellow who immediately told me how much she hates Kpalime…) There are in fact many yovos here in Kpalime right now, harkening back to the days when Togo was a tourism hotspot. I am told that this is the “season of the Yovos” – aka summer vacation time. Hilarious.
I have eaten lots of fufu already (delicious! J) and talked extensively with Daniel (the CEO of FECECAV) and Aminou (my Kpalimé electrician and head of the solar team we will train during the pilot project.) I bought a motorcycle battery to hook up my solar panel demo, and it is currently chez le mecanicien charging up. Batteries here are bought without acid, and you must them take it to the mechanic to fill it up – where the mechanic removes some acid from another battery, mixes it with filthy water, tests it to see if it’s good, and, barehanded, spilling it all over his little brother’s feet and the oily ground of his workstation, adds it to the battery with a turkey baster. (I just tried in vain for 15 minutes to upload pictures of this, amongst a few others, but the internet connection is just not having it)
Everyone is impatient for the pilot project, and keep asking where is Mister Jon, when will we “installer les pannaux solaires”? I admire their trust in me and their endurance – not only because so many leave empty promises all over this continent, but also that nowhere but in Africa can I find this type of patience and resilience. I have made an impression on them and, since I am back again, this time with a panel, with documents to sign and posters to hang in their office, they are content to continue waiting for SunPower Afrique. I do not take it for granted and I will not let them down! Aminou as well, is so anxious to get started, and nervous that several solar panel installers have cropped up throughout the country (Chinese…) and that he will miss his chance. But he too trusts me and waits for his training – I continue to remember why we have decided work with him: his passion and understanding of solar in the context of his life and his country is exemplary and inspiring.
I am planning the next three weeks – pressured to get everything accomplished that I want to in such a short time, also allowing a week or so to travel north with Inno to meet his family and see more of the country. I am somewhat embarrassed to say that throughout my time in Togo, so unlike my adventurous self, I have never been North of Atakpame!
I will spend a week or so in Lome, to have my meetings with the Ministers of Decentralization, Small Business and Energy & Mining. I will also visit the Port of Lomé for a tour, and reconnect with M. Lare, my partner/consultant who currently has himself in quite a state, due to a misunderstanding between himself and Novinyo, another of my partners (a FECECAV manager). Something about “insulting his character” by not giving him a loan that falls far outside FECECAV’s average size for loan disbursal. I must go smooth this over in order to move forward…c’est l’Afrique quoi. Wish me luck.
I promised to keep my blog short this time, and while I’m sure you all long for my long-winded descriptions of the nuances of Togolese culture and the smell of burning plastic, I will spare you – this once :)
Will write again soon, of my plans and programs, and about the evolution of SunPower Afrique on the ground! As Daniel said to me, it becoming plus et plus réale(more and more real.)
Amitiés,
K
Thursday, July 2, 2009
7.5 Months…
...Is a long time to have been away from Togo. And on August 4th, when I fly back, through Accra, it will have been 9 months since my feet have been on the ground in Africa.
Last night I put my new blackberry down on top of my new netbook computer and had to do a double-take. Am I the same girl who wrapped herself in a pagne on the airplane and vowed never again to approach living beyond my means? What am I doing with these gadgets?
The longer I stay here in the US, the easier it is to slip back into the ways of selfishness and consumerism…I was born here, raised here, lived and live here. And am constantly struggling with why I suddenly have a love-hate relationship with everything I have ever known…
And the longer I stay here and work to grow the for-profit business, worry about who will be at the beach on Saturday, and who won’t, and how many more things I can’t get accomplished in a day, and how frustrated I am with the small business server and the congressperson who won’t vote to increase the solar share because it would cost PA ratepayers an additional 3cents on their annual utility bill…the more distant I feel from my project, from Togo, from Inno and Rogier and Akpene…from everything I was so driven by, in love with and smothered in when I returned from my first sejour au Togo, now well over a year ago.
Oui c'est complique, le balance me trahit…
The pace of life here in recent months (or all the time) would flabbergast anyone in Togo...I work all the time, at a frantic pace...tripping my way through a complex balancing act of policy advocacy, solar sales and non-profit business development. And go to Rotary meetings every Wedsneday and drive to NYC to see my sister and to LBI to see my friends and I love it...but would les Togolaises ever understand...?
I cannot wait to have an entire month to spend purely on Afrique work...my business plan is, at LONG last, almost in good shape, I have a budget in a complicated excel spreadsheet(thank you Danny and Rich Singer at RSVP) and I am starting to raise money! I hope that my trip will only spur the momentum, as I tackle some serious market analysis and outreach to develop my customer base of solar enthusiasts :) I will post a message with a more detailed description of my plans for August in the near future, and then off we go...
A bientot -
K
PS - Exciting! Thank you to Mike Armstrong, for filming and working with me on SunPower Afrique's first video...coming soon...
BECOME A FAN OF SUNPOWER AFRIQUE ON FACEBOOK: http://www.facebook.com/home.php#/pages/SunPower-Afrique/52677941699?ref=ts
Last night I put my new blackberry down on top of my new netbook computer and had to do a double-take. Am I the same girl who wrapped herself in a pagne on the airplane and vowed never again to approach living beyond my means? What am I doing with these gadgets?
The longer I stay here in the US, the easier it is to slip back into the ways of selfishness and consumerism…I was born here, raised here, lived and live here. And am constantly struggling with why I suddenly have a love-hate relationship with everything I have ever known…
And the longer I stay here and work to grow the for-profit business, worry about who will be at the beach on Saturday, and who won’t, and how many more things I can’t get accomplished in a day, and how frustrated I am with the small business server and the congressperson who won’t vote to increase the solar share because it would cost PA ratepayers an additional 3cents on their annual utility bill…the more distant I feel from my project, from Togo, from Inno and Rogier and Akpene…from everything I was so driven by, in love with and smothered in when I returned from my first sejour au Togo, now well over a year ago.
Oui c'est complique, le balance me trahit…
The pace of life here in recent months (or all the time) would flabbergast anyone in Togo...I work all the time, at a frantic pace...tripping my way through a complex balancing act of policy advocacy, solar sales and non-profit business development. And go to Rotary meetings every Wedsneday and drive to NYC to see my sister and to LBI to see my friends and I love it...but would les Togolaises ever understand...?
I cannot wait to have an entire month to spend purely on Afrique work...my business plan is, at LONG last, almost in good shape, I have a budget in a complicated excel spreadsheet(thank you Danny and Rich Singer at RSVP) and I am starting to raise money! I hope that my trip will only spur the momentum, as I tackle some serious market analysis and outreach to develop my customer base of solar enthusiasts :) I will post a message with a more detailed description of my plans for August in the near future, and then off we go...
A bientot -
K
PS - Exciting! Thank you to Mike Armstrong, for filming and working with me on SunPower Afrique's first video...coming soon...
BECOME A FAN OF SUNPOWER AFRIQUE ON FACEBOOK: http://www.facebook.com/home.php#/pages/SunPower-Afrique/52677941699?ref=ts
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
