On the radio this morning the familiar crackling voice of PeaceFM announced that, due to a massive hike in taxes on their operations, Moov, the (only) independent cellphone service provider in Togo, will cease its operations in the country. Hours later, the logo, name and service bars disappeared from cellphones throughout Togo. Togocell, the state-run provider has once again retained its monopoly on telecommunications, having swiftly eliminated its competition with a stroke of the bureaucratic (and not so proverbial) pen.
To me this is very disappointing…what with my preconceived notions of democracy, free markets and unfettered capitalism… Inno just chuckled and said “quel comedie.” Togo, having taken leaps (understood in the proper context of course…) towards democratic systems of not only governance but economic growth in the past 10 years, seems to be stumbling. Interestingly, this is all happening months before elections in 2010. Is there more than one candidate? Definitely not. HOWEVER, I did watch a music video last night in which a Togolese rapper, S-Jev, defiantly reprimanded the government for the poverty and poor health of its population, deplorable infrastructure and corruption. Under the previous regime this would not have been allowed and S-Jev would have been imprisoned faster than he could have asked for another ball of fufu – so there is indeed an increased sense and semblance of civil liberties.
It seems however that this forward movement is being staved off in the world of commerce. Which is not necessarily good news for SunPower Afrique! I have, in my backpack, a photocopied decree from the Minister of Ports, citing that all solar equipment can be imported into the country without taxes. I have mentioned this before, but want to reiterate what a big deal this is for a country with no natural resources, that therefore relies hugely on import taxes. Once again I question my idealism – will a piece of paper in a yovo’s hands actually mean anything? If the government can snuff out Moov, it can surely make the work of a startup nonprofit quite challenging….I will be taking a tour of the Port of Lomé in the next few weeks, and am carefully calculating my approach towards the presentation of this document to the appropriate individual…
I have also been repeatedly told that my “recepisse” (my documentation to legally operate my business/NGO in Togo) is waiting for my signature at the Minister of Decentralization. I will go to find it on Friday – wish me luck!
* * *
After watching the evening news and asking everyone I see whether they think Moov will be back, it appears that the Togolese government is in the process of “negotiating” a new contract…we shall see…in the interim, those with the means to do so have all run out and bought Togocell sim cards.
It was an interesting day in Togo, not only this fiasco with Moov, but the government also unveiled its new passports, which have been issued in order to “modernize their travel documents.” All citizens wishing to leave the country must now buy a new passport (30,000CFA/about $60), as the old ones are no longer valid.
It poured rain for 3 hours yesterday afternoon, prohibiting me from getting back to CECAV-Avenir (I am telling you, you have never seen such a downpour…) Inno and I sat outside on wooden stools, enjoying the cool misty air, sharing a tiny glass or sodabi and talking about politics and mysticism. We talked about the attempted coup-d’état that took place 3 months ago, which now has the president’s brother and his assorted, foreign military wing, armed with Chinese rifles, imprisoned in Lomé. About the chain of corruption and theft that prevents bridges from being built and trickles down to even the most honest and well-intentioned citizens…about tradition and modernization and what lies in between.
Many potential investors and MBA advisors have told me I paint too rosy a picture of Togo – as a haven of democracy and liberalism in the midst of the corruption of West Africa. However, I always do my best to present an accurate description of this country, and I will continue to do so. This is Africa, and it is with hints of cynicism and heaps of idealism (both necessary to fully comprehend the complex dynamics of both culture and politics) that I believe in Togo. Two steps forward, one step back, mais CA VA ALLER.
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