Christmas in Togo was a bit anticlimactic…which makes sense, since without lots of money, presents, feasts and generally excessive consumerism, what else do I know about the holiday season? However, several things are different here than usual. It makes me laugh, takes me by surprise and enrages me every time I drive by a white Santa Clause statue in the doorway of an African bank…strings of half lit, blinking lights hang across the Boulevard de 13 Fevrier in Lomé and adorn the central offices of Togotelecom. I suddenly notice the plastic Christmas trees in my friends’ rooms and in certain boutiques that have definitely been there all along…
The only day of vacation is Christmas Day itself. Everyone goes to church early in the morning and stays there for almost 5 hours, but this is not that far from what happens every Sunday…after being permitted to sleep until almost 9AM we congregated in Atsou’s roasting salon and ate fufu and drank whiskey mixed with a (very) cheap version of Bailey’s Irish cream.
Only in Togo can you sweat your way through lunch and not feel the slightest embarrassment. Because you are always less sweaty than the women that pounded that fufu for you – who also come to eat of course, paying little mind to the beads that slide down their chest and temples. As we eat we get even sweatier from the alcohol and spicy sauce. Why people who live in hot climates have adapted to eat hot and spicy sauces continues to be beyond me…
Everyone tells me that the partying continues from Christmas until New Years – it is both a conversation starter (“Et tu as bien feté? Mais oui! Ca continue eh?!” Snap Snap Laugh Laugh) and a form of encouragement, as everyone knows well that no one here has the finances to drink alcohol that many days in a row. Especially now…
When I was here last, the economic crisis had not yet hit very hard here. While Togo is somewhat shielded from the worst, because their economy has been so devastated it doesn’t depend that heavily on global credit and financial markets, people now refer to it as “La Crise.” Many people have mentioned to me that this year they will not be buying this or that, that business has been slow, that they could not afford to buy medicine for their child. The dogs at the house are emaciated and pant exhaustedly in the afternoon sun. I try to feed Bienvenue any scraps that I can find and told Inno that I was going to buy her a bowl for water, which he thought was uproariously funny.
It is also incredibly dusty in Togo right now. I have never seen it like this. Apparently it has not rained in almost 2 months. The roads are forever shrouded in hovering clouds of dust, that explode out of potholes and around rocks as they are crunched and pounded by hoodless trucks and taxis. I shower 3 times a day to remove the thin film of red dirt that collects on my face, arms and ankles. When I lean on tables I can feel the grit and when I wipe my hand on my pant leg it turns the color of the road. Everyone wipes their motos before sitting down (lest they get their carefully pressed trousers dirty…) and some taxi-moto drivers cover their mouths with pieces of cloth, but only a few. And the Harmattan winds have not even arrived yet! People tell me that perhaps when it rains, the winds will follow, but it is indeed “their time.”
The weather and climate is so intensely different than 3 months ago it is almost hard to fathom. The extremity of this place...In rainy season my showers felt cold and my laundry never dried – today it dries in less than 15 minutes and I can’t get enough of the cold water pouring over my face. The sun is so intense that people start to wilt after 1PM and it is almost impossible to sit indoors. Even the air blowing on me at this very minute, from the fan I have placed directly behind me and pointed straight at my head, is hot.
At 2AM on the day after Christmas I went to Lomé to get my 2 bags. I came back with one, my backpack. Although I am a fairly low-maintenance person, I really haven’t needed that much besides the bar of soap and toothbrush that I bought at the marché for 4 days…this kind of simplicity is not something I’ve ever truly experienced before. It took a missing bag to make me realize that no, I really don’t need my big bag of toiletries and multitude of changes of clothes. That said…it’s amazing what a little shampoo and a loofah can do for the soul :)
Tuesday, December 29, 2009
24 December - Friends and Philosophies
Sitting on the veranda (after I got my usual chiding for sitting in the sun) Maman Mathilde and I “cose.”
Coser (Ko-zay): to sit and chat. But it is more than just gossiping and talking, it is a way of passing the time, enjoying each others’ company and, for me, understanding the world around me. Togolese love to coser…they will cose for hours and hours and hours…to keep out of trouble, to keep from being bored, to simply take pleasure in their relationships with each other. Inno and his work friends cose about repayments and microcredit clients; Akpene and her ladies cose whose mother is sick and why men are such dogs; Me? I always want to cose about politics…but around election time, getting people to talk about opposition parties and corruption is like pulling teeth (However I do have some fairly unique relationships with people on the ground here and am slowly gleaning what I can about the atmosphere surrounding February’s presidential election…will write on that soon.)
Maman Mathilde and I talk about the French yovos in Kpalime and how they always (almost without exception, I will never understand…) walk the streets with the Rastamen…reinforcing stereotypes with every late night rendezvous and purchase of a djembe.
While I will always be a Yovo above anything else, I have true friends here that don’t just want my money or the social boost it gives them to lead me around town to buy artwork from their frères and soeurs. That know I will be back. That know I am different. I appreciate and respect my Togolese friends so much for this simple recognition and respect – and I in turn give them the same. Africa is complicated and people are at once incredibly transparent and extremely difficult to figure out, but one thing is universal I suppose: good folks are hard to find.
Last night, after fufu at Atsou’s, I went to a local bar with my FECECAV crew. Whenever I meet Yovos coming to Togo, whether for work or pleasure, they all want to know the same things: Where can I find the ex-pats? Where are the Yovo bars? Is it weird or real that either I don’t know or I stay away from these places as much as possible…I do all I can to separate myself from the European accents, the excessive drinking, the condescending , and even more upsetting, often subconscious, comments and looks…
I have written about this before, but every time I come back here and spend weeks on end without speaking to another Yovo I realize how abnormal that is…without any intention of sounding completely obnoxious, I prefer my Togolese friends, and am always surrounded by them. I am not here for some romantic or exotic experience, and this is wholly in line with my philosophy on international development, and hence, my projects and choices.
Peace Corps and Embassy jobs do not interest me…how can you put a timeline on how long you are willing to help people? After your service or contract you leave…with a full heart, a pat on your back, a bullet point on your resume, having built one clinic or temporarily assisted one farmers’ co-op. But where is the sustainability? Where is the genuinely-intentioned capacity building and giving the responsibility to Africans themselves, with some infusion of resources of course, to develop (NOT to their governments! Let me be very clear about this!) All of that said, I do not mean to cruelly devalue to work of Peace Corps volunteers, as I have known some great ones.
But without energy, liquidity and functioning telecommunications networks, this “development” seems so far out of reach. It is both wonderful and bizarre that I don’t get discouraged very often.
After energy, telecommunications is the next most important thing for economic development. Moov has still not returned, and TogoTelecom’s network is now so saturated that not only can you not get any calls though without redialing 10 times, but apparently Togocell has run out of new numbers…
But even in its absence, Togolese hearts still belong to Moov. Is it a sign of the population's tacit resistance to their corrupt state-run market. Everyone continues to talk about Moov’s free weekends and that “when Moov comes back” they will offer 5 free days of communication.
Coser (Ko-zay): to sit and chat. But it is more than just gossiping and talking, it is a way of passing the time, enjoying each others’ company and, for me, understanding the world around me. Togolese love to coser…they will cose for hours and hours and hours…to keep out of trouble, to keep from being bored, to simply take pleasure in their relationships with each other. Inno and his work friends cose about repayments and microcredit clients; Akpene and her ladies cose whose mother is sick and why men are such dogs; Me? I always want to cose about politics…but around election time, getting people to talk about opposition parties and corruption is like pulling teeth (However I do have some fairly unique relationships with people on the ground here and am slowly gleaning what I can about the atmosphere surrounding February’s presidential election…will write on that soon.)
Maman Mathilde and I talk about the French yovos in Kpalime and how they always (almost without exception, I will never understand…) walk the streets with the Rastamen…reinforcing stereotypes with every late night rendezvous and purchase of a djembe.
While I will always be a Yovo above anything else, I have true friends here that don’t just want my money or the social boost it gives them to lead me around town to buy artwork from their frères and soeurs. That know I will be back. That know I am different. I appreciate and respect my Togolese friends so much for this simple recognition and respect – and I in turn give them the same. Africa is complicated and people are at once incredibly transparent and extremely difficult to figure out, but one thing is universal I suppose: good folks are hard to find.
Last night, after fufu at Atsou’s, I went to a local bar with my FECECAV crew. Whenever I meet Yovos coming to Togo, whether for work or pleasure, they all want to know the same things: Where can I find the ex-pats? Where are the Yovo bars? Is it weird or real that either I don’t know or I stay away from these places as much as possible…I do all I can to separate myself from the European accents, the excessive drinking, the condescending , and even more upsetting, often subconscious, comments and looks…
I have written about this before, but every time I come back here and spend weeks on end without speaking to another Yovo I realize how abnormal that is…without any intention of sounding completely obnoxious, I prefer my Togolese friends, and am always surrounded by them. I am not here for some romantic or exotic experience, and this is wholly in line with my philosophy on international development, and hence, my projects and choices.
Peace Corps and Embassy jobs do not interest me…how can you put a timeline on how long you are willing to help people? After your service or contract you leave…with a full heart, a pat on your back, a bullet point on your resume, having built one clinic or temporarily assisted one farmers’ co-op. But where is the sustainability? Where is the genuinely-intentioned capacity building and giving the responsibility to Africans themselves, with some infusion of resources of course, to develop (NOT to their governments! Let me be very clear about this!) All of that said, I do not mean to cruelly devalue to work of Peace Corps volunteers, as I have known some great ones.
But without energy, liquidity and functioning telecommunications networks, this “development” seems so far out of reach. It is both wonderful and bizarre that I don’t get discouraged very often.
After energy, telecommunications is the next most important thing for economic development. Moov has still not returned, and TogoTelecom’s network is now so saturated that not only can you not get any calls though without redialing 10 times, but apparently Togocell has run out of new numbers…
But even in its absence, Togolese hearts still belong to Moov. Is it a sign of the population's tacit resistance to their corrupt state-run market. Everyone continues to talk about Moov’s free weekends and that “when Moov comes back” they will offer 5 free days of communication.
22-23 December - L'Arrive
After a rainy day spent being a tourist in Casablanca (which made me almost as uncomfortable as that city itself…I don’t know what it is, but considering I’ve never been more thatn 50km from the airport, I will withhold judgement on Morrocco…) I was overcome with my now customary sense of pride and exhilaration when the low-lying tin roofs and pockets of LEDs of Lome came into sight. The plane’s windows fogged with thick, humid air. Temperature on the ground 26 degrees celcius. At midnight.
I got through customs quickly, but my glee soon dissipated when neither my solar panels nor my backpack appeared on the chugging baggage belt…not all that surprising but frustrating nonetheless…not having one’s toiletries in Togo isn’t quite the same as not having them in Florida…
Upon arriving in the baggage room my hurried American sense of accountability gave way to my African sense of patience. I waited while the sleepy eyed woman sweating behind the counter chatted in Ewe with the 15 frères in front of me, then eventually took my turn as she explained that perhaps my bags would arrive on the next flight…on Saturday…my skinny jeans immediate felt even sweatier at the thought of having to wear them for 4 days...
If it had just been the panels that didn’t arrive I would have lost all hope…but since it was both, I took the handwritten receipt, looking longingly at the JFK electronic tracking numbers I saved (for some reason…)
“Madame Mapwo” (I want to see) said the grinning attendant of my carry-on bag as I tried to exit the terminal, but when I responded cheerfully that it was just equipment for an NGO project in Kpalime, and thanked her in Ewe, she clapped and let me pass, to find Inno, Atsou and Jules waiting for me on the other side of the frosted glass.
Unfortauntely we couldn’t find fufu at 1AM, but we did stop for a Flag before speeding towards Kpalime in the rented car they had pooled together money to bring for my bags…dommage that there were no bags, but I love my friends.
I got through customs quickly, but my glee soon dissipated when neither my solar panels nor my backpack appeared on the chugging baggage belt…not all that surprising but frustrating nonetheless…not having one’s toiletries in Togo isn’t quite the same as not having them in Florida…
Upon arriving in the baggage room my hurried American sense of accountability gave way to my African sense of patience. I waited while the sleepy eyed woman sweating behind the counter chatted in Ewe with the 15 frères in front of me, then eventually took my turn as she explained that perhaps my bags would arrive on the next flight…on Saturday…my skinny jeans immediate felt even sweatier at the thought of having to wear them for 4 days...
If it had just been the panels that didn’t arrive I would have lost all hope…but since it was both, I took the handwritten receipt, looking longingly at the JFK electronic tracking numbers I saved (for some reason…)
“Madame Mapwo” (I want to see) said the grinning attendant of my carry-on bag as I tried to exit the terminal, but when I responded cheerfully that it was just equipment for an NGO project in Kpalime, and thanked her in Ewe, she clapped and let me pass, to find Inno, Atsou and Jules waiting for me on the other side of the frosted glass.
Unfortauntely we couldn’t find fufu at 1AM, but we did stop for a Flag before speeding towards Kpalime in the rented car they had pooled together money to bring for my bags…dommage that there were no bags, but I love my friends.
Monday, December 28, 2009
Trouble With the Blog in Paradise...I mean Africa...
Shocking I know...
I'm really not sure if it's the Microsoft Word circa 1985, the viruses or my USB but I can't seem to get my blogs to open...since I write them on my laptop and then use my precious (and expensive!) internet time for uploading, I have to doanload them and do a simple copy and paste. But we all know "simple" in Togo is un autre chose.
And believe me I have tried...yesterday I waited for the cyber café to open "in the afternoon," which finally happened at 4pm (it is amazing how patient I am here, as I've said before, no one who knows me and my work ethic would believe it) but to no avail. I have however written 3 blogs and will post them as soon as possible, as I am sure you're all chomping at the bit :)
All is well in Togo, I am eating fufu almost 3 times per day, my solar panels have finally arrived and I am trés contente.
Stay tuned...merry merry to everyone from Kpalimé.
Smoky, sweet air, 95 degrees, raw onions, humming motos and giggling toddlers, fingers snapping and tongues hissing...bliss...
I'm really not sure if it's the Microsoft Word circa 1985, the viruses or my USB but I can't seem to get my blogs to open...since I write them on my laptop and then use my precious (and expensive!) internet time for uploading, I have to doanload them and do a simple copy and paste. But we all know "simple" in Togo is un autre chose.
And believe me I have tried...yesterday I waited for the cyber café to open "in the afternoon," which finally happened at 4pm (it is amazing how patient I am here, as I've said before, no one who knows me and my work ethic would believe it) but to no avail. I have however written 3 blogs and will post them as soon as possible, as I am sure you're all chomping at the bit :)
All is well in Togo, I am eating fufu almost 3 times per day, my solar panels have finally arrived and I am trés contente.
Stay tuned...merry merry to everyone from Kpalimé.
Smoky, sweet air, 95 degrees, raw onions, humming motos and giggling toddlers, fingers snapping and tongues hissing...bliss...
Sunday, December 20, 2009
Snowed in NY...New Travel Dates Dec 22 - Jan 6
I suppose it could be worse...well it always could...but...
35 mile backup on the NJ Turnpike due to mass panic over a Northeaster, then over a foot of snow = Kira is not nearly as close to the equator as she should be right now...instead of Casablanca I am sitting in my sister's Brooklyn apartment trying to remain prepared (mentally and otherwise) for my trip. This entails not unpacking my jammed backpack because I want that t-shirt that is rolled up and stuffed in the bottom left corner, attempting not to overanalyze the reason I missed that plane and simply containing my dissapointment and frustration...I had this trip planned perfectly!!
Next flight to Lome is on Tuesday. And I will be on it. Better late than never. And I guess it WILL be kind of cool to show everyone in Togo photos of a foot of snow, the Dyker Heights Christmas light show and other winter wonderland-ness as the reason I was delayed a few days.
My next post will most likely be from a sweaty cyber cafe. I can't wait to get there. But I must admit, I did enjoy the snow.
35 mile backup on the NJ Turnpike due to mass panic over a Northeaster, then over a foot of snow = Kira is not nearly as close to the equator as she should be right now...instead of Casablanca I am sitting in my sister's Brooklyn apartment trying to remain prepared (mentally and otherwise) for my trip. This entails not unpacking my jammed backpack because I want that t-shirt that is rolled up and stuffed in the bottom left corner, attempting not to overanalyze the reason I missed that plane and simply containing my dissapointment and frustration...I had this trip planned perfectly!!
Next flight to Lome is on Tuesday. And I will be on it. Better late than never. And I guess it WILL be kind of cool to show everyone in Togo photos of a foot of snow, the Dyker Heights Christmas light show and other winter wonderland-ness as the reason I was delayed a few days.
My next post will most likely be from a sweaty cyber cafe. I can't wait to get there. But I must admit, I did enjoy the snow.
Friday, December 11, 2009
Thank You...and one week to the beautiful return...
I am in between.
One week ago I was running around frantically finalizing logistics for SunPower Afrique's benefit event. One week from now I will be on my way back to West Africa, greeting l'Harmattan, my FECECAV family and a so-close-to-the-pilot-project-we-can-taste-it excitement in Kpalime.
As I have noted before, it is strange to coexist in these two worlds, both working towards the same goal and equally critical spaces of influence, productivity and resources. Today, on December 11th, 2009, I am directly in the middle :)
I'm so lucky.
While I am taking this trip over the holidays to relax, take some deep breaths and revel in the African pace of life and work (18Dec - 3Jan) I will of course be busy while on the ground...everything is easier to accomplish face-to-face, without exorbitantly expensive phone calls and crackling connections, without language barriers and borders...
I will update kirawithoutborders while I am away, as per tradition. Thank you so much to everyone who attended our benefit last week, it was special to be surrounded and supported by such a wonderful group of people helping to make this all happen. Special thanks to my volunteers - without you the Celebration would not have been possible.
We are moving closer to the first Solar Loans and FECECAV's solar system...the word is OUT! SunPower Afrique is making moves. 2010 will be a big year.
One week ago I was running around frantically finalizing logistics for SunPower Afrique's benefit event. One week from now I will be on my way back to West Africa, greeting l'Harmattan, my FECECAV family and a so-close-to-the-pilot-project-we-can-taste-it excitement in Kpalime.
As I have noted before, it is strange to coexist in these two worlds, both working towards the same goal and equally critical spaces of influence, productivity and resources. Today, on December 11th, 2009, I am directly in the middle :)
I'm so lucky.
While I am taking this trip over the holidays to relax, take some deep breaths and revel in the African pace of life and work (18Dec - 3Jan) I will of course be busy while on the ground...everything is easier to accomplish face-to-face, without exorbitantly expensive phone calls and crackling connections, without language barriers and borders...
I will update kirawithoutborders while I am away, as per tradition. Thank you so much to everyone who attended our benefit last week, it was special to be surrounded and supported by such a wonderful group of people helping to make this all happen. Special thanks to my volunteers - without you the Celebration would not have been possible.
We are moving closer to the first Solar Loans and FECECAV's solar system...the word is OUT! SunPower Afrique is making moves. 2010 will be a big year.
Thursday, December 3, 2009
Celebration of Solar Energy & Microfinance Changing Lives - TOMORROW NIGHT!
Read the write-up from today's Main Line Times:
http://www.mainlinemedianews.com/articles/2009/12/04/main_line_times/life/doc4b1753dd7f40a131277600.txt
Hope to see you there!
Kira
http://www.mainlinemedianews.com/articles/2009/12/04/main_line_times/life/doc4b1753dd7f40a131277600.txt
Hope to see you there!
Kira
Wednesday, November 25, 2009
Thursday, November 5, 2009
You're Invited! To SunPower Afrique's First Annual Celebration of Solar Energy and Microfinance Changing Lives - Dec. 4, 2009 7-10PM
Click here to view the full invite!
Tickets $25 ($10 with student ID) - raffle ticket included
To purchase tickets: events@sunpowerafrique.org. Walk-ins welcome
SunPower Afrique is a local 501(c)(3) non-profit with a mission to reduce poverty in West Africa by connecting microfinance institutions and small businesses to solar energy. www.sunpowerafrique.org
MICROFINANCE CHANGING LIVES 7-10 PM 814 Yarrow Street - Bryn Mawr, PA Click here for directions
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To purchase tickets: events@sunpowerafrique.org. Walk-ins welcome
Tuesday, October 27, 2009
First Annual SunPower Afrique Benefit Event: December 4th, 7-10PM
To raise funds for our pilot project, still slated for March 2010 (after Togolese elections in January), we are organizing a benefit event in the Philadelphia area on December 4th from 7-10PM.
We will be putting on a silent auction, featuring the work of local, established artists, including several works by Mary and John Costanza.
The event will also be a celebration of West African culture, with a drumming and dance troupe, food and drink, and raffle giveaways.
Save the date and stay tuned for details!
If you have ideas or would like to help out with planning, please contact kira.costanza@sunpowerafrique.org
We will be putting on a silent auction, featuring the work of local, established artists, including several works by Mary and John Costanza.
The event will also be a celebration of West African culture, with a drumming and dance troupe, food and drink, and raffle giveaways.
Save the date and stay tuned for details!
If you have ideas or would like to help out with planning, please contact kira.costanza@sunpowerafrique.org
Monday, September 14, 2009
Kira to speak at PA Renewable Energy Fest this Friday
Hi Everyone -
Just a quick announcement that I will be speaking about SunPower Afrique at the PA Renewable Energy Festival in Kempton, PA this Friday at 9AM. While I know the timing for this is tough, if you're in the area please do come by!
For more information on the festival, speakers, directions, etc. please visit the festival's website at www.paenergyfest.com SunPower Builders/SunPower Solar will have a booth there all weekend as well.
If you can't make it, please pass the message along to someone else who might.
Thanks!
Kira
www.sunpowerafrique.org
Just a quick announcement that I will be speaking about SunPower Afrique at the PA Renewable Energy Festival in Kempton, PA this Friday at 9AM. While I know the timing for this is tough, if you're in the area please do come by!
For more information on the festival, speakers, directions, etc. please visit the festival's website at www.paenergyfest.com SunPower Builders/SunPower Solar will have a booth there all weekend as well.
If you can't make it, please pass the message along to someone else who might.
Thanks!
Kira
www.sunpowerafrique.org
Thursday, September 10, 2009
Thursday, September 3, 2009
2-3 Septembre, 2009
I am officially addicted to fufu…at the beginning of this week I pretty much panicked at the thought of not being able to find it regularly (the bagged yam flakes that you find in the states are just not the same…) and have found a way to eat it at every meal since Sunday. I often wonder why the preferred meal of the Togolese is (ironically) so difficult to make and spoils quickly, but then I remember, because it is just so good. And rich in vitamins, and fills you up. Togolese cuisine and I have become very good friends.
My last weeks in Togo have been as fast paced as West Africa allows. I have made several trips to Lomé, getting (another) transit visa in order to get to my flight in Ghana, meeting with Maersk at the Port of Lomé to understand the logistics and necessary formalities for transporting my solar panels from the capital to FECECAV’s site in Kpalimé, and trying, again without success, to retrieve my recepissé. However, I made some serious ground, thanks to my dear friend Jacques at the CNM, a little yovo-attitude and a few thousand CFA (of which the latter is usually MUCH more well received…), SunPower Afrique will have its recognition by the Togolese government, and therefore security and relative ease for operations, by next week at the latest.
Everyone here was shocked at my tenacity, as after I was rebuffed and played by the minister’s assistant 2 times, 3 times, and 9 months later, I moved on and went over his head. The Togolese associations, trying to get the same recepissé for their projects (which, to be fair, are often dysfunctional NGOs that only exist to bouff money from the Europeean Union, UNDP and other such well-established international development organs that prefer to evaluate their water sanitation projects from an air conditioned office in Geneva), for the most part, wait. And wait. And wait. And you all know that patience is not one of my strong points (even after all I have learned here in Togo!) particularly with corrupt politicians’ chargés d’affaires.
I now have a friend in the Secretary General of the Ministry of Decentralization and Local Associations, and not only understand the protocols and fees, but have a stamped copy of the law. None of my partners take lightly my ability to get things done here, which is largely a product of the relationships I’ve formed because I embrace people and culture, will talk to nearly anyone but now also know when to keep my mouth shut, and am truly motivated by what I am doing.
On Saturday, Aminou and I gave a 30 minute radio emission on Radio Planete Plus, “The Voice of the Hills of Kpalimé,”explaining what solar energy and SunPower Afrique are, why they’re important in Togo and that if they’re interested, they should come to our solar power demonstration on Monday at Petite Suisse in Kpalimé. MC Jimmy played terrible 80’s love ballads for “breaks” and recorded the radio spot on a cassette, shaking his head with an awo when I handed him a blank cd.
I have been trying since I arrived to recruit people to come to Monday’s presentation, and hundreds of people knew about it. However, and highlighting even more the importance of the market sensibilisation, education and outreach I am doing, only about 40 showed up. And only an hour late. I was thrilled.
I greeted everyone in the audience and presented the agenda, as required, then gave a brief introduction to SunPower Afrique and why the deployment of solar energy is so critical in Togo. Then I gave a demonstration of how solar energy works, explaining how when the sun hits the panel, the electrons in the silica move around and create current, which is then stored in the battery, sent through the inverter and, ta-da! Lights up an 11watt CFL. Everyone clapped and cheered when the lightbulb came on. It was a great moment, for once I have no words to describe it. I then talked about the mission of SunPower Afrique, the pilot project, the new Solar Loan product and left time for questions and refreshments (which is why people showed up of course :)).
The Solar Loan terms and agreements are ready to go, including carefully calculated and negotiated interest rates and terms that can both maintain our mission of bringing solar to the poorest of the poor and sustain needs for loan management and overhead. Directors and Loan Officers have been briefed and are ready and willing to answer questions when interested clients inquire about the new product – my eyes and ears on the ground to start finding and qualified, interested candidates for the first round of Solar Loans in 2010.
I have learned more than ever this trip that a huge part of this project’s success, as well as my own self-respect, requires me to BE HERE. While I am needed in the states at SunPower, which continues to expand at a record pace, if I want this project to really take off in Togo I am needed on the ground. One month just does not suffice. To do one installation here and there, as with the roofs of MFIs, can be maintained in this way, but to grow the Solar Loan program, which is what I am increasingly inspired by, I will need to spend more time in Togo each year.
The presidential election is in February, which falls unfortunately right when I wanted to return and launch the pilot project. In 2005, there was patchy to severe violence surrounding the elections. Today, people are even more disillusioned with Faure and there is the petite problem of his imprisoned brother Patcha and his supporters. And then there is always the French, with their diplomatic fingers deeply and inappropriately wound around Togolese politics. Clearly the 2010 elections won’t be an example of “free and fair multiparty democratic electrical processes” and I have learned my share about corruption (requiring some selective editing of the Togo section in my business plan…) but will there be violence? No one knows, no one will say, but as opposition and campaign posters have started to appear in Lomé, I can sense the tacit nervousness. People are preparing themselves for February.
After much advice and conversations with my partners, we have determined that it is not prudent (yes for safety reasons, but mostly just for the success of the project…) to start things until after the election. Therefore, I think that we will return to Togo in March, to install the PV system for FECECAV’s HQ here in Kpalimé, as well as spend time doing outreach and vetting and choosing candidates for the first Solar Loans. To do all of this, I am thinking to open a small boutique/storefront for SunPower Afrique en ville.
Sadly, I will miss this weekend’s Epervier’s game, a massive event throughout the country, particularly since they are playing Gabon, a West African neighbor. But I love that when I leave Togo, I am always sent off with a “Go quickly so that you can come back,” to which I respond “Yes, quickly quickly.”
Ѐ Mayimava, kaba kaba looo.
My last weeks in Togo have been as fast paced as West Africa allows. I have made several trips to Lomé, getting (another) transit visa in order to get to my flight in Ghana, meeting with Maersk at the Port of Lomé to understand the logistics and necessary formalities for transporting my solar panels from the capital to FECECAV’s site in Kpalimé, and trying, again without success, to retrieve my recepissé. However, I made some serious ground, thanks to my dear friend Jacques at the CNM, a little yovo-attitude and a few thousand CFA (of which the latter is usually MUCH more well received…), SunPower Afrique will have its recognition by the Togolese government, and therefore security and relative ease for operations, by next week at the latest.
Everyone here was shocked at my tenacity, as after I was rebuffed and played by the minister’s assistant 2 times, 3 times, and 9 months later, I moved on and went over his head. The Togolese associations, trying to get the same recepissé for their projects (which, to be fair, are often dysfunctional NGOs that only exist to bouff money from the Europeean Union, UNDP and other such well-established international development organs that prefer to evaluate their water sanitation projects from an air conditioned office in Geneva), for the most part, wait. And wait. And wait. And you all know that patience is not one of my strong points (even after all I have learned here in Togo!) particularly with corrupt politicians’ chargés d’affaires.
I now have a friend in the Secretary General of the Ministry of Decentralization and Local Associations, and not only understand the protocols and fees, but have a stamped copy of the law. None of my partners take lightly my ability to get things done here, which is largely a product of the relationships I’ve formed because I embrace people and culture, will talk to nearly anyone but now also know when to keep my mouth shut, and am truly motivated by what I am doing.
On Saturday, Aminou and I gave a 30 minute radio emission on Radio Planete Plus, “The Voice of the Hills of Kpalimé,”explaining what solar energy and SunPower Afrique are, why they’re important in Togo and that if they’re interested, they should come to our solar power demonstration on Monday at Petite Suisse in Kpalimé. MC Jimmy played terrible 80’s love ballads for “breaks” and recorded the radio spot on a cassette, shaking his head with an awo when I handed him a blank cd.
I have been trying since I arrived to recruit people to come to Monday’s presentation, and hundreds of people knew about it. However, and highlighting even more the importance of the market sensibilisation, education and outreach I am doing, only about 40 showed up. And only an hour late. I was thrilled.
I greeted everyone in the audience and presented the agenda, as required, then gave a brief introduction to SunPower Afrique and why the deployment of solar energy is so critical in Togo. Then I gave a demonstration of how solar energy works, explaining how when the sun hits the panel, the electrons in the silica move around and create current, which is then stored in the battery, sent through the inverter and, ta-da! Lights up an 11watt CFL. Everyone clapped and cheered when the lightbulb came on. It was a great moment, for once I have no words to describe it. I then talked about the mission of SunPower Afrique, the pilot project, the new Solar Loan product and left time for questions and refreshments (which is why people showed up of course :)).
The Solar Loan terms and agreements are ready to go, including carefully calculated and negotiated interest rates and terms that can both maintain our mission of bringing solar to the poorest of the poor and sustain needs for loan management and overhead. Directors and Loan Officers have been briefed and are ready and willing to answer questions when interested clients inquire about the new product – my eyes and ears on the ground to start finding and qualified, interested candidates for the first round of Solar Loans in 2010.
I have learned more than ever this trip that a huge part of this project’s success, as well as my own self-respect, requires me to BE HERE. While I am needed in the states at SunPower, which continues to expand at a record pace, if I want this project to really take off in Togo I am needed on the ground. One month just does not suffice. To do one installation here and there, as with the roofs of MFIs, can be maintained in this way, but to grow the Solar Loan program, which is what I am increasingly inspired by, I will need to spend more time in Togo each year.
The presidential election is in February, which falls unfortunately right when I wanted to return and launch the pilot project. In 2005, there was patchy to severe violence surrounding the elections. Today, people are even more disillusioned with Faure and there is the petite problem of his imprisoned brother Patcha and his supporters. And then there is always the French, with their diplomatic fingers deeply and inappropriately wound around Togolese politics. Clearly the 2010 elections won’t be an example of “free and fair multiparty democratic electrical processes” and I have learned my share about corruption (requiring some selective editing of the Togo section in my business plan…) but will there be violence? No one knows, no one will say, but as opposition and campaign posters have started to appear in Lomé, I can sense the tacit nervousness. People are preparing themselves for February.
After much advice and conversations with my partners, we have determined that it is not prudent (yes for safety reasons, but mostly just for the success of the project…) to start things until after the election. Therefore, I think that we will return to Togo in March, to install the PV system for FECECAV’s HQ here in Kpalimé, as well as spend time doing outreach and vetting and choosing candidates for the first Solar Loans. To do all of this, I am thinking to open a small boutique/storefront for SunPower Afrique en ville.
Sadly, I will miss this weekend’s Epervier’s game, a massive event throughout the country, particularly since they are playing Gabon, a West African neighbor. But I love that when I leave Togo, I am always sent off with a “Go quickly so that you can come back,” to which I respond “Yes, quickly quickly.”
Ѐ Mayimava, kaba kaba looo.
Tuesday, September 1, 2009
Blitta
So much to say and do, so little time. I am not ready to come back to my blackberry. To marketing solutions and powerclerk applications. But this has been a fruitful trip, and I have learned a lot, about corruption and development, about partners and voleurs, about for better and for worse, and for all of it I am continually grateful.
I have written about my experience with my “recepissé” (authorization to operate my NGO in Togo, which I still don’t officially have in my hands by the way) but still haven’t wrapped my head enough around the situation to put it out here in writing. I’ll get there soon. And hopefully by that time I will have the silly little piece of paper tucked safely away in my backpack, having made 15 photocopies and distributed them to be stored in secure locations throughout West Africa.
Last weekend Inno and I took a 3 day trip to Blitta, a small town smack in the middle of Togo (but still considered “The North”, both ethnically and geographically…) where Inno grew up, and where his mother and sister and lots of petit frères and soeurs still live.
We arrived at the station in Kpalimé at 9am, since it can take many hours to get to the north, depending on the condition of the roads, and we wanted to get there before dark. We did not have such luck…
However, my time sitting at the station waiting gave me ample time to consider the cultural beehive (I can’t think of a better way to describe it) that was occurring around me – the Kpalimé station is a mesmerizing place. Everything moves. Everyone is hawking something, shoving handfuls of peanuts and toothpaste and matches into jam-packed vans of sweltering passengers waiting to depart. Barefooted chauffeurs’ apprentices and laborers clamber over mountains of woven plastic bags of charcoal and maize, pyramids of plasticware, and stacked yellow jugs of cooking oil, masterfully securing the towering rooftop cargo with thin cords and canvas. Stern-faced African women survey their goods, hands on hips, hissing angrily if their basket of flipflops is shoved too far beneath a greasy carafe of palm oil. When you think they are done, they add another layer, usually of tires or something heavy to weigh it down. Then the goats, sheep and chickens – they get attached last. It is a miracle of physics not only that these vans very infrequently tip over, but also that nothing ever falls off. Well, rarely.
We waited at the station for more than 4 hours, finally making our grand exit at about 1:30pm.
And a grand exit it was…in a Mitsubishi van were crammed 19 people, 2 toddlers and a chauffeur. Lucky for us, since we were early to arrive, Inno and I found seats next to a real window – as opposed to those that had been reconstructed with layers of clear packing tape. Under a weight of rooftop cargo whose height rivaled that of the van itself, the supportive rocks were removed from behind our tires - which to me seemed far too small and lacking the appropriate air pressure to support the load they bore – and we were pushed by a gang of teenage boys until the engine took and we jolted triumphantly out onto the road. 10 feet later the engine stalled. It was one of those moments when I unintentionally burst of laughing, just couldn’t stop, and, since I had already befriended everyone in the van and tried out my Ewe on them, they too started grinning and clicking and Togo-Togo-ing, even Inno, who tends to be completely and overly composed in public. 5 minutes later we were on our way again.
The road North out of Kpalimé, which we would normally take to pick up the Route Internationale (the best and biggest road in Togo – and the only road for tractor trailers– that goes from the port of Lomé all the way up into Burkina Faso) in Atakpame, is currently impassable. That road, which I so frequently traveled last year through Lavie to Adéta, basically is no more. The 20 minute drive to Adeta now takes upwards of 2 hours by moto. Even small cars can no longer make the trip and chauffeurs, to protect their vehicles, now refuse to take the Adéta road and take the longer route through the town of Notse instead.
The state of the roads in Togo right now is downright deplorable and really, I’d appreciate it if the customs fees I am going to pay to import my solar panels could be applied to, at a minimum, filling in some potholes. I wonder who I could talk to about that…
The Notse road was an experience. It is lined with forests of teak and fields of corn, unpaved and a deep red color. Few craters. Pretty, I thought. Wrong. Within 10 minutes a thin film of maroonish-orange dust had settled on every exposed surface in the van, and was swirling around my feet, in the air and in between my teeth. 10 minutes later it was no longer a film but thick layer of red dirt caked on clothes, fingernails, eyelashes, earings, watches, afros and beards. And we still had 5-6 more hours to go…
Luckily, we arrived in Notse an hour or so later and, since the chauffeur and several other passengers were Muslims, we stopped for them to pray, which gave me an opportunity to wipe off my feet, with a dirty blue windbreaker that people were passing around, before we hit the paved road.
8 hours, 1 can of Chinese-manufactured “brake and steering fluid,” a flat tire and 2 sets of Ramadan prayers later, we arrived in Blitta.
Blitta is a Faure Gnassingbe stronghold. It is the town where he got his start in politics and began being groomed for the presidency… The first thing I spotted driving into town was a big white graffiti that read: “Avec Faure c’est la paix” (With Faure, it is peace.) Interestingly, in this town of several hundred thousand, when the high-tension electricity lines broke down a few weeks ago, Faure bought them a shiny new groupe electrogene (generator) and fuel to power the entire town. The lights go on every morning at 8am, out from noon to 2pm, and then are shut off for the night at 10pm.
Blitta is primarily ethnically Kabye and Kotokoli, which are also the 2 main languages spoken, although nearly 30 languages/dialects are spoken within the town. While when I first came to Togo, Kabye, Kotokoli and their various dialects sounded similar to Ewe and I had a hard time telling them apart, but now they strike me as starkly different. Kabye is a rounder language, words spoken with many trills and rolls, and without that splendid agitation that characterizes Ewe. Wordflow and sentence structure are more connected and legato , making it seem shier and more subtle than its southern linguistic partner.
Kabyes and Kotokolis too have a word for white girl, as I soon learned, when hoardes of children (who see yovos even less frequently than those in Kpalimé, since there is no real reason for a tourist to come to Blitta…unless you want to see a cotton factory, which is the town’s main bragging point) began hissing “Anasarra! Anasarrrrra! Anasarra!”
While in Blitta I met Innocent’s family and drank lots of Tsoukatsouk (pronounced Chook-a-chook), which is the Northern equivalent of Sodabi – but it is more like a warm beer and thankfully tastes less like gasoline burning down your throat. Inno’s mother and sister make and sell Tsoukatsouk out of their house, and people come to drink and be merry throughout the day and night. The biggest customers? Gendarmie and police. Have to be good and sauced before heading to work if you want to be taken seriously as a law-enforcement authority in Togo. I was also completely amazed at how all the children, even babies (think 4 months old) chug down the milky beverage, beads of sweat immediately forming on their tiny foreheads. It is a bit troubling, because yes, there is often a “slight” problem with alcoholism, however subtle and taboo, in rural Africa…
Because the trip was so horrific on the way there, Inno and I opted for the night-route back…meaning we left Blitta at 2am and went directly to Lomé, arriving around 7:30am. Driving through the suburbs of Lomé at 6am was just like driving through at 9am, everyone was already awake, slowly and methodically going about their business. I often wonder if the reason no one sleeps late in Togo is really beacuse of the heat…is it just because everyone else does, because you know you can sleep for 3 more hours in the afternoon, or just because there is just nothing else to do but get on with your day. I often find myself feeling that deep sadness, watching the mothers and grandmothers and daughters and sisters carrying huge pots of water and bundles of wood on their heads at such an early hour, sleep still in the corners of their eyes. We must always remember that we are the lucky ones.
Another update on SunPower Afrique before I head back stateside – I am a bit behind on my blogging, but coming soon! K
I have written about my experience with my “recepissé” (authorization to operate my NGO in Togo, which I still don’t officially have in my hands by the way) but still haven’t wrapped my head enough around the situation to put it out here in writing. I’ll get there soon. And hopefully by that time I will have the silly little piece of paper tucked safely away in my backpack, having made 15 photocopies and distributed them to be stored in secure locations throughout West Africa.
Last weekend Inno and I took a 3 day trip to Blitta, a small town smack in the middle of Togo (but still considered “The North”, both ethnically and geographically…) where Inno grew up, and where his mother and sister and lots of petit frères and soeurs still live.
We arrived at the station in Kpalimé at 9am, since it can take many hours to get to the north, depending on the condition of the roads, and we wanted to get there before dark. We did not have such luck…
However, my time sitting at the station waiting gave me ample time to consider the cultural beehive (I can’t think of a better way to describe it) that was occurring around me – the Kpalimé station is a mesmerizing place. Everything moves. Everyone is hawking something, shoving handfuls of peanuts and toothpaste and matches into jam-packed vans of sweltering passengers waiting to depart. Barefooted chauffeurs’ apprentices and laborers clamber over mountains of woven plastic bags of charcoal and maize, pyramids of plasticware, and stacked yellow jugs of cooking oil, masterfully securing the towering rooftop cargo with thin cords and canvas. Stern-faced African women survey their goods, hands on hips, hissing angrily if their basket of flipflops is shoved too far beneath a greasy carafe of palm oil. When you think they are done, they add another layer, usually of tires or something heavy to weigh it down. Then the goats, sheep and chickens – they get attached last. It is a miracle of physics not only that these vans very infrequently tip over, but also that nothing ever falls off. Well, rarely.
We waited at the station for more than 4 hours, finally making our grand exit at about 1:30pm.
And a grand exit it was…in a Mitsubishi van were crammed 19 people, 2 toddlers and a chauffeur. Lucky for us, since we were early to arrive, Inno and I found seats next to a real window – as opposed to those that had been reconstructed with layers of clear packing tape. Under a weight of rooftop cargo whose height rivaled that of the van itself, the supportive rocks were removed from behind our tires - which to me seemed far too small and lacking the appropriate air pressure to support the load they bore – and we were pushed by a gang of teenage boys until the engine took and we jolted triumphantly out onto the road. 10 feet later the engine stalled. It was one of those moments when I unintentionally burst of laughing, just couldn’t stop, and, since I had already befriended everyone in the van and tried out my Ewe on them, they too started grinning and clicking and Togo-Togo-ing, even Inno, who tends to be completely and overly composed in public. 5 minutes later we were on our way again.
The road North out of Kpalimé, which we would normally take to pick up the Route Internationale (the best and biggest road in Togo – and the only road for tractor trailers– that goes from the port of Lomé all the way up into Burkina Faso) in Atakpame, is currently impassable. That road, which I so frequently traveled last year through Lavie to Adéta, basically is no more. The 20 minute drive to Adeta now takes upwards of 2 hours by moto. Even small cars can no longer make the trip and chauffeurs, to protect their vehicles, now refuse to take the Adéta road and take the longer route through the town of Notse instead.
The state of the roads in Togo right now is downright deplorable and really, I’d appreciate it if the customs fees I am going to pay to import my solar panels could be applied to, at a minimum, filling in some potholes. I wonder who I could talk to about that…
The Notse road was an experience. It is lined with forests of teak and fields of corn, unpaved and a deep red color. Few craters. Pretty, I thought. Wrong. Within 10 minutes a thin film of maroonish-orange dust had settled on every exposed surface in the van, and was swirling around my feet, in the air and in between my teeth. 10 minutes later it was no longer a film but thick layer of red dirt caked on clothes, fingernails, eyelashes, earings, watches, afros and beards. And we still had 5-6 more hours to go…
Luckily, we arrived in Notse an hour or so later and, since the chauffeur and several other passengers were Muslims, we stopped for them to pray, which gave me an opportunity to wipe off my feet, with a dirty blue windbreaker that people were passing around, before we hit the paved road.
8 hours, 1 can of Chinese-manufactured “brake and steering fluid,” a flat tire and 2 sets of Ramadan prayers later, we arrived in Blitta.
Blitta is a Faure Gnassingbe stronghold. It is the town where he got his start in politics and began being groomed for the presidency… The first thing I spotted driving into town was a big white graffiti that read: “Avec Faure c’est la paix” (With Faure, it is peace.) Interestingly, in this town of several hundred thousand, when the high-tension electricity lines broke down a few weeks ago, Faure bought them a shiny new groupe electrogene (generator) and fuel to power the entire town. The lights go on every morning at 8am, out from noon to 2pm, and then are shut off for the night at 10pm.
Blitta is primarily ethnically Kabye and Kotokoli, which are also the 2 main languages spoken, although nearly 30 languages/dialects are spoken within the town. While when I first came to Togo, Kabye, Kotokoli and their various dialects sounded similar to Ewe and I had a hard time telling them apart, but now they strike me as starkly different. Kabye is a rounder language, words spoken with many trills and rolls, and without that splendid agitation that characterizes Ewe. Wordflow and sentence structure are more connected and legato , making it seem shier and more subtle than its southern linguistic partner.
Kabyes and Kotokolis too have a word for white girl, as I soon learned, when hoardes of children (who see yovos even less frequently than those in Kpalimé, since there is no real reason for a tourist to come to Blitta…unless you want to see a cotton factory, which is the town’s main bragging point) began hissing “Anasarra! Anasarrrrra! Anasarra!”
While in Blitta I met Innocent’s family and drank lots of Tsoukatsouk (pronounced Chook-a-chook), which is the Northern equivalent of Sodabi – but it is more like a warm beer and thankfully tastes less like gasoline burning down your throat. Inno’s mother and sister make and sell Tsoukatsouk out of their house, and people come to drink and be merry throughout the day and night. The biggest customers? Gendarmie and police. Have to be good and sauced before heading to work if you want to be taken seriously as a law-enforcement authority in Togo. I was also completely amazed at how all the children, even babies (think 4 months old) chug down the milky beverage, beads of sweat immediately forming on their tiny foreheads. It is a bit troubling, because yes, there is often a “slight” problem with alcoholism, however subtle and taboo, in rural Africa…
Because the trip was so horrific on the way there, Inno and I opted for the night-route back…meaning we left Blitta at 2am and went directly to Lomé, arriving around 7:30am. Driving through the suburbs of Lomé at 6am was just like driving through at 9am, everyone was already awake, slowly and methodically going about their business. I often wonder if the reason no one sleeps late in Togo is really beacuse of the heat…is it just because everyone else does, because you know you can sleep for 3 more hours in the afternoon, or just because there is just nothing else to do but get on with your day. I often find myself feeling that deep sadness, watching the mothers and grandmothers and daughters and sisters carrying huge pots of water and bundles of wood on their heads at such an early hour, sleep still in the corners of their eyes. We must always remember that we are the lucky ones.
Another update on SunPower Afrique before I head back stateside – I am a bit behind on my blogging, but coming soon! K
Friday, August 28, 2009
Yovo Ameyibo
During the months of July – September/October, the electricity cuts usually only last a few minutes. They are still far too frequent, reminding me every time of the fragility of the supply of energy in this country. When it rains often, the hydro plants in Ghana produce enough electricity to export, and therefore Togo has light…when the Volta region is dry, Togo is in the dark. It’s that simple.
And while during rainy season the blackouts are short they still create a major nuisance for everyone using a computer, having to shut down and quickly save, as transformers blink and beep in exasperation, and (tragically) fans whir to a halt. Not to mention the power surges that drain computer batteries and slowly wear away at other equipment. I’m sitting here in the CECAV-Avenir office, and they have cut the power 4 times in the last 20 minutes, for less than 3 minutes each time – just to give you an idea. Last time it came back on the internet connection came back “limited or no connectivity” and then went down, since it’s so sensitive. It won’t come back until tomorrow.
It never ceases to amaze me how the ever present white noise of technology can fill up an office. And, how here, when that background hum ceases, you hear everything outside and remember where you are – people pounding on sheet metal, staccato Ewe greetings, sputtering 1960s diesel MAC trucks crashing in and out of potholes… (did I mention how DESTROYED all the roads are here right now? It’s pitiable, it takes 4 times as long to get anywhere and if you don’t have a moto, there are several major towns you just can’t get to. More on that later.)
The energy situation isn’t the only thing that’s different in Togo in August. First of all, school is out for summer vacation – the morning and afternoon processions of, uniformed children are no more. And since there are no amusement parks or Julian Krinksky day camps in Kpalimé, the kids amuse themselves with tires and rocks, edito and ludo, and, of course, squealing at yovos.
Nothing dries in Togo during rainy season…ever. Since I’ve been here, the laundry I washed (well, just to clarify, I started washing, and then when my knuckles started bleeding after 5 minutes Inno finished it…yovo skin in so infuriatingly fragile!) in the first week is still damp. Every morning we put it out on the line and race home at lunchtime to bring it in as it starts to downpour – if we’re not too late. It’s hilarious in this completely twisted way…just like the constant stomach problems, fatigue and headaches, and fingers that smell like onions and fish for days at a time.
The other thing that is fascinating about Kpalimé in August is the plethora of tourists! Everyone keeps saying that this year there are more yovos than ever in Togo, since the political problems (at least on the surface…) are becoming a distant past, diplomatic ties with the E.U. have been restored and foreign aid is slowly – SLOWLY – trickling back into the country.
It is bizarre not to be one of the only “established” yovos in Kpalimé, because in addition to the tourists who come for a few days to visit the waterfalls and Centre Artisnal, there are students from France, Germany and Switzerland who come to volunteer with various orphanages, environmental NGOs and community associations. I try so hard not to be judgemental (isn’t that terrible?!) We joke that on sunny days the yovos come out of their hotel rooms to get an African tan and then, when it starts to rain, they disappear. It is however a strange and fascinating reality…
And while during rainy season the blackouts are short they still create a major nuisance for everyone using a computer, having to shut down and quickly save, as transformers blink and beep in exasperation, and (tragically) fans whir to a halt. Not to mention the power surges that drain computer batteries and slowly wear away at other equipment. I’m sitting here in the CECAV-Avenir office, and they have cut the power 4 times in the last 20 minutes, for less than 3 minutes each time – just to give you an idea. Last time it came back on the internet connection came back “limited or no connectivity” and then went down, since it’s so sensitive. It won’t come back until tomorrow.
It never ceases to amaze me how the ever present white noise of technology can fill up an office. And, how here, when that background hum ceases, you hear everything outside and remember where you are – people pounding on sheet metal, staccato Ewe greetings, sputtering 1960s diesel MAC trucks crashing in and out of potholes… (did I mention how DESTROYED all the roads are here right now? It’s pitiable, it takes 4 times as long to get anywhere and if you don’t have a moto, there are several major towns you just can’t get to. More on that later.)
The energy situation isn’t the only thing that’s different in Togo in August. First of all, school is out for summer vacation – the morning and afternoon processions of, uniformed children are no more. And since there are no amusement parks or Julian Krinksky day camps in Kpalimé, the kids amuse themselves with tires and rocks, edito and ludo, and, of course, squealing at yovos.
Nothing dries in Togo during rainy season…ever. Since I’ve been here, the laundry I washed (well, just to clarify, I started washing, and then when my knuckles started bleeding after 5 minutes Inno finished it…yovo skin in so infuriatingly fragile!) in the first week is still damp. Every morning we put it out on the line and race home at lunchtime to bring it in as it starts to downpour – if we’re not too late. It’s hilarious in this completely twisted way…just like the constant stomach problems, fatigue and headaches, and fingers that smell like onions and fish for days at a time.
The other thing that is fascinating about Kpalimé in August is the plethora of tourists! Everyone keeps saying that this year there are more yovos than ever in Togo, since the political problems (at least on the surface…) are becoming a distant past, diplomatic ties with the E.U. have been restored and foreign aid is slowly – SLOWLY – trickling back into the country.
It is bizarre not to be one of the only “established” yovos in Kpalimé, because in addition to the tourists who come for a few days to visit the waterfalls and Centre Artisnal, there are students from France, Germany and Switzerland who come to volunteer with various orphanages, environmental NGOs and community associations. I try so hard not to be judgemental (isn’t that terrible?!) We joke that on sunny days the yovos come out of their hotel rooms to get an African tan and then, when it starts to rain, they disappear. It is however a strange and fascinating reality…
Thursday, August 20, 2009
SunPower Afrique featured on Kiva Blog and linked in NY Times!
Check it out!
(please copy and paste these links into your browser)
http://fellowsblog.kiva.org/2009/08/19/power-to-the-people/
www.nytimes.com/greeninc
Please support our pilot project at www.sunpowerafrique.org!
(please copy and paste these links into your browser)
http://fellowsblog.kiva.org/2009/08/19/power-to-the-people/
www.nytimes.com/greeninc
Please support our pilot project at www.sunpowerafrique.org!
Tuesday, August 18, 2009
18 Aout 2009: Making SunPower Afrique Happen!
Working on my own here, it’s sometimes difficult and always stressful to stay on task and complete tasks efficiently – particularly in an environment where a) there is an acceptable synergy between sleep and work and b) it often takes a small miracle to print, download or execute any other seemingly menial electronic task…
However, I am slowly ticking off the items on my ambitious list of goals for this trip. Which makes me trés contente :)
My time in Lomé was not spent only staring at landfills and fanning charcoal to make my morning coffee. I had several very important meetings, all bringing me closer and closer to making this pilot project happen. I can’t describe the overflowing excitement that I feel when I think about it…because with the success of the pilot project, SunPower Afrique will surge forward to achieve its goals much more easily – with a concrete project installed on the ground. People will believe me, and they will believe in solar.
1. The CNM
In Lomé I met with Jacques, the Director of Operations at the CNM (National Microfinance Committee), who has proven himself to be a helpful and faithful partner. I briefed him on project’s development, including fundraising, the terms of the “Solar Loan” product, relationships with partners and status of official documents (receipt of my 501(c)(3) and my recepissé…) Jacques mentioned that he had heard wind of some other solar projects being undertaken by a Canadian NGO, an international organization, etc. and that I should hurry to be the first to have something in place on the ground – therefore being recognized as “the first” by the Togolese government. Even more urgency and momentum to SunPower Afrique!
I also shared with Jacques a Memorandum of Understanding that I hope to sign, between SunPower Afrique and the CNM, displaying proof of our cooperative partnership and commitment to work together to achieve both the goals of SunPower Afrique’s programs for MFIs in Togo, but also the goals of the National Strategy for Microfinance in Togo (modernization and informatisation in particular – both greatly supported by reliable, solar electricity!)
2. M. Lare & Training
I also met in Lomé with M. Lare, who will assist with our training program as a Togolese representative and “language liaison” to complement the expertise of Jon (and hopefully Ron C!) Importantly, M. Lare and I also discussed that we will not be taking this project to any ministers or government associations just yet…the political environment here is a complex, multifaceted and fascinating animal. One must allez trés trés doucement…
I also sent messages my other contacts for training in Togo, to discuss the expansion of training programs to technical schools and even the University of Lomé. This is further down the road, but it’s never too soon to get sharp minds on the same page.
3. CECAV-Avenir and the Solar Loan Program
Here in Kpalimé I have been meeting with Daniel, the DG of FECECAV and the champion of solar for MFIs in Togo, who I cannot thank enough for his vision and commitment to piloting SunPower Afrique’s programs with his institution. Daniel and I have chosen a date and started advertising for my presentation to FECECAV staff and clients at the end of the month, drafted and accepted a Memorandum of Understanding. (NB: Interestingly, while Daniel believes in SunPower Afrique, he insisted on adding an “Article 4: Annullment”, which states that “If the PV systems installed by SunPower Afrique do not work, this contract is null and void.” I added it, because this is not a fear I share with my Togolese counterparts. And if we cannot live up to this, what are we doing here anyway?)
SunPower Afrique posters now hang in the CECAV-Avenir salon, and SunPower Afrique Solar Loan pamphlets are at the cash window and in Inno’s office, where most clients frequent. I have already had several inquiries, but it is true, this market will take a while to develop and outreach and sensibilisation will be a massive undertaking…
I also presented to Daniel a draft of the description and terms of the “Solar Loan” – guaranties and collateral, loan terms and interest rates, etc. – which we will continue to finesse and eventually sign a mutally agreeable contract before I leave in September. This document is a huge step forward in making the Solar Loan portion of SunPower Afrique’s project a reality.
4. Abby the Kiva Fellows Blog
In addition to this work with my Togolese partners, there is news on another front. A Kiva Fellow Alum named Abby Gray, who worked in Togo as a Fellow at the same time as I did last year (with different MFIs,) has taken an interest in my project and offered to help me with publicity. She came up with the idea of posting an article on the Kiva Fellows Blog about SunPower Afrique. She then took the initiative to go straight to Kiva and pitch the idea –and they said yes! She has written an incredibly well-composed, inspiring article that will hopefully appear in front of Kiva enthusiasts worldwide! This will be fantastic exposure and I CANNOT thank her enough :) I will post the link to the blog as soon as it becomes available.
5. Darren, Claude and the New York Times!
Thanks to my dear friend Megan Rhodes, Togo PCV Alum (whose work with Chantal and Aklala Batik – www.akala.blogspot.com – has transformed a tiny batik business in Togo into a thriving, internationally known enterprise), I have been connected to a PCV named Darren Legge. Before coming to Togo, Darren was a solar installer in Colorado with Standard Renewables, and is, like me, inspired by the prospects for solar in Togo. Not only has he been working with a man who is starting a renewable energy business (wind and solar), here in Kpalimé and in Atakpamé (Claude Amouzou-Togo of TOGO-ENERGY, with whom I hope to partner in a serious way…) but Darren managed to get a link to my website into an article about solar in Africa in the New York Times!
See here for the article: www.nytimes.com/greeninc
SunPower Afrique has gone NY Times. Yessss. Akpe ka ka ka siaaa.
However, I am slowly ticking off the items on my ambitious list of goals for this trip. Which makes me trés contente :)
My time in Lomé was not spent only staring at landfills and fanning charcoal to make my morning coffee. I had several very important meetings, all bringing me closer and closer to making this pilot project happen. I can’t describe the overflowing excitement that I feel when I think about it…because with the success of the pilot project, SunPower Afrique will surge forward to achieve its goals much more easily – with a concrete project installed on the ground. People will believe me, and they will believe in solar.
1. The CNM
In Lomé I met with Jacques, the Director of Operations at the CNM (National Microfinance Committee), who has proven himself to be a helpful and faithful partner. I briefed him on project’s development, including fundraising, the terms of the “Solar Loan” product, relationships with partners and status of official documents (receipt of my 501(c)(3) and my recepissé…) Jacques mentioned that he had heard wind of some other solar projects being undertaken by a Canadian NGO, an international organization, etc. and that I should hurry to be the first to have something in place on the ground – therefore being recognized as “the first” by the Togolese government. Even more urgency and momentum to SunPower Afrique!
I also shared with Jacques a Memorandum of Understanding that I hope to sign, between SunPower Afrique and the CNM, displaying proof of our cooperative partnership and commitment to work together to achieve both the goals of SunPower Afrique’s programs for MFIs in Togo, but also the goals of the National Strategy for Microfinance in Togo (modernization and informatisation in particular – both greatly supported by reliable, solar electricity!)
2. M. Lare & Training
I also met in Lomé with M. Lare, who will assist with our training program as a Togolese representative and “language liaison” to complement the expertise of Jon (and hopefully Ron C!) Importantly, M. Lare and I also discussed that we will not be taking this project to any ministers or government associations just yet…the political environment here is a complex, multifaceted and fascinating animal. One must allez trés trés doucement…
I also sent messages my other contacts for training in Togo, to discuss the expansion of training programs to technical schools and even the University of Lomé. This is further down the road, but it’s never too soon to get sharp minds on the same page.
3. CECAV-Avenir and the Solar Loan Program
Here in Kpalimé I have been meeting with Daniel, the DG of FECECAV and the champion of solar for MFIs in Togo, who I cannot thank enough for his vision and commitment to piloting SunPower Afrique’s programs with his institution. Daniel and I have chosen a date and started advertising for my presentation to FECECAV staff and clients at the end of the month, drafted and accepted a Memorandum of Understanding. (NB: Interestingly, while Daniel believes in SunPower Afrique, he insisted on adding an “Article 4: Annullment”, which states that “If the PV systems installed by SunPower Afrique do not work, this contract is null and void.” I added it, because this is not a fear I share with my Togolese counterparts. And if we cannot live up to this, what are we doing here anyway?)
SunPower Afrique posters now hang in the CECAV-Avenir salon, and SunPower Afrique Solar Loan pamphlets are at the cash window and in Inno’s office, where most clients frequent. I have already had several inquiries, but it is true, this market will take a while to develop and outreach and sensibilisation will be a massive undertaking…
I also presented to Daniel a draft of the description and terms of the “Solar Loan” – guaranties and collateral, loan terms and interest rates, etc. – which we will continue to finesse and eventually sign a mutally agreeable contract before I leave in September. This document is a huge step forward in making the Solar Loan portion of SunPower Afrique’s project a reality.
4. Abby the Kiva Fellows Blog
In addition to this work with my Togolese partners, there is news on another front. A Kiva Fellow Alum named Abby Gray, who worked in Togo as a Fellow at the same time as I did last year (with different MFIs,) has taken an interest in my project and offered to help me with publicity. She came up with the idea of posting an article on the Kiva Fellows Blog about SunPower Afrique. She then took the initiative to go straight to Kiva and pitch the idea –and they said yes! She has written an incredibly well-composed, inspiring article that will hopefully appear in front of Kiva enthusiasts worldwide! This will be fantastic exposure and I CANNOT thank her enough :) I will post the link to the blog as soon as it becomes available.
5. Darren, Claude and the New York Times!
Thanks to my dear friend Megan Rhodes, Togo PCV Alum (whose work with Chantal and Aklala Batik – www.akala.blogspot.com – has transformed a tiny batik business in Togo into a thriving, internationally known enterprise), I have been connected to a PCV named Darren Legge. Before coming to Togo, Darren was a solar installer in Colorado with Standard Renewables, and is, like me, inspired by the prospects for solar in Togo. Not only has he been working with a man who is starting a renewable energy business (wind and solar), here in Kpalimé and in Atakpamé (Claude Amouzou-Togo of TOGO-ENERGY, with whom I hope to partner in a serious way…) but Darren managed to get a link to my website into an article about solar in Africa in the New York Times!
See here for the article: www.nytimes.com/greeninc
SunPower Afrique has gone NY Times. Yessss. Akpe ka ka ka siaaa.
Monday, August 17, 2009
15-17 Aout 2009 ~ Togo Togo
Nothing like a weekend in Lomé to generate an even deeper appreciation for my lovely Kpalimé…and to remind me both how poor and underdeveloped Togo really is, but also why I love this country so much.
Lomé is filthy. Open sewers line the dusty streets, clogged not only with human and g-d knows what else’s excrement, but plastic bags, cans and months (if not years…) of an overpopulated city’s worth of garbage. Driving past the lagoon you almost have to hold your breath, the smell of waste and rot is so potent…and just across the street, children run around barefoot (or naked if they’re not so lucky,) rilfing through heaps of trash in the hopes of finding 100CFA buried in the sand or a piece of scrap metal or broken electronic to resell. Everything moves. Everything makes noise.
Life in Lomé is twice/three-times as expensive as in any village or town in Togo. Life is difficult and dusty and dirty and hot. And yet everyone wants to come here, live here, be able to tell their frères and soeurs that they live in the capital. Like much of the world, the city reek of opportunity, growth, modernization and purpose, but Lomé is a bizarre paradox of these qualities, having crumbled to its knees in the past 20 years due to the pathetic loss of all foreign aid. It is tragic in the full sense of the word, it is hard to see and it breaks my heart.
Because the pride is still there. Everyone is always smiling and life moves goes on with laughter and love, pure joy, of life. Togo is a special place and despite my continually rising cynicism for international development, the culture of aid and “good governance,” I will never give up hope for the Togolese people – because they are the most wonderful and resilient that I have ever known. Despite my increasingly angry intolerance for the “Hiss Yovo VA!” (Come here white girl!) and gangs of voleurs and bandits that burn holes in my backpack with their eyes…we should all take a few lessons from the Togolese on how to enjoy life and good plate of fufu. And they know it! They take pride in their “accueil” (welcoming) and take the corruption of their government and society, which trickles down to every radio emission and every sale at the marché, in stunning stride.
Sometimes I completely freak out about what I am trying to do here…the fact that I went to get my recepissé from the Minister of Decentralization and his aide, M. Honore, who walks with a limp and an overconfident flicker in his beady eyes, with whom I left the complete file 9 months ago, hasn’t even looked at it yet…but agreed to take a peek if I gave him 15,000CFA (about $40) and, if I was really interested in getting a receipt for this, I should slip another 10,000 in there for good measure.
The fact that uploading this very blog is such a production…which I am writing in word while waiting for the page the upload…ever so slowly…I am at one of the cyber cafés in Kpalimé right now (the only one worth paying for…haha), just finished waiting out a “baisse de tension” aka the opposite of a power surge where all of the computers go down and we wait patiently (or not so patiently…) for them to first turn back on and second for internet connection to come back…
But those are only material, immediate things. It is difficult to be so deeply enmeshed in my project and my field work knowing that I am here only for a month, that my other life is waiting for me (and important work and contacts and projects and emails and proposals and applications and meetings) and that this duplicity is constantly pulling at me. Obliging complicated and painful thoughts about the true meaning of commitment and success of this venture.
Lomé is filthy. Open sewers line the dusty streets, clogged not only with human and g-d knows what else’s excrement, but plastic bags, cans and months (if not years…) of an overpopulated city’s worth of garbage. Driving past the lagoon you almost have to hold your breath, the smell of waste and rot is so potent…and just across the street, children run around barefoot (or naked if they’re not so lucky,) rilfing through heaps of trash in the hopes of finding 100CFA buried in the sand or a piece of scrap metal or broken electronic to resell. Everything moves. Everything makes noise.
Life in Lomé is twice/three-times as expensive as in any village or town in Togo. Life is difficult and dusty and dirty and hot. And yet everyone wants to come here, live here, be able to tell their frères and soeurs that they live in the capital. Like much of the world, the city reek of opportunity, growth, modernization and purpose, but Lomé is a bizarre paradox of these qualities, having crumbled to its knees in the past 20 years due to the pathetic loss of all foreign aid. It is tragic in the full sense of the word, it is hard to see and it breaks my heart.
Because the pride is still there. Everyone is always smiling and life moves goes on with laughter and love, pure joy, of life. Togo is a special place and despite my continually rising cynicism for international development, the culture of aid and “good governance,” I will never give up hope for the Togolese people – because they are the most wonderful and resilient that I have ever known. Despite my increasingly angry intolerance for the “Hiss Yovo VA!” (Come here white girl!) and gangs of voleurs and bandits that burn holes in my backpack with their eyes…we should all take a few lessons from the Togolese on how to enjoy life and good plate of fufu. And they know it! They take pride in their “accueil” (welcoming) and take the corruption of their government and society, which trickles down to every radio emission and every sale at the marché, in stunning stride.
Sometimes I completely freak out about what I am trying to do here…the fact that I went to get my recepissé from the Minister of Decentralization and his aide, M. Honore, who walks with a limp and an overconfident flicker in his beady eyes, with whom I left the complete file 9 months ago, hasn’t even looked at it yet…but agreed to take a peek if I gave him 15,000CFA (about $40) and, if I was really interested in getting a receipt for this, I should slip another 10,000 in there for good measure.
The fact that uploading this very blog is such a production…which I am writing in word while waiting for the page the upload…ever so slowly…I am at one of the cyber cafés in Kpalimé right now (the only one worth paying for…haha), just finished waiting out a “baisse de tension” aka the opposite of a power surge where all of the computers go down and we wait patiently (or not so patiently…) for them to first turn back on and second for internet connection to come back…
But those are only material, immediate things. It is difficult to be so deeply enmeshed in my project and my field work knowing that I am here only for a month, that my other life is waiting for me (and important work and contacts and projects and emails and proposals and applications and meetings) and that this duplicity is constantly pulling at me. Obliging complicated and painful thoughts about the true meaning of commitment and success of this venture.
Thursday, August 13, 2009
12-13 August 2009: Club Rotary de Kpalimé
The Kpalimé Rotary club has 6 members. They meet every Wednesday at 7pm at Hotel Cristal, in the bar, where 6 plastic chairs are placed in a circle around a 3 small tables pushed together. When I arrived for the meeting, which I had been invited to 2 days earlier by Ephram, the first Togolese Rotarian that I found (or rather, was introduced to me by a friend at FECECAV) the electricity had already been out for about 30 minutes and people were milling about the hotel lobby with cellphones and flashlights. People always seem to speak more quietly and move more slowly when there is a coupure.
In the bar, a small and empty room off of the lobby, the Rotarians started to trickle in at about 7:15. Soon the Rotary bell was placed on the table and the now familiar practice of hand shaking, snapping, nodding and comment cava-ing took place. I find it very special that no matter where in the world you find yourself, in Collegeville, PA or in Kpalimé, Togo, you can find this Rotary bell and the same vibe of comradery and routine.
The president of the club is Angelique, a friendly yet reserved woman who owns and operates a restaurant near Petit Suisse called Le Gourmet. Out of the 6 members, I was very surprised to learn that 3 are women! And even more surprised when I was introduced to Angelique as the president – who ever said that African Rotary clubs are not progressive have never been to Kpalimé.
All members of the club arrived at the meeting in full Rotary garb – meaning they were all dressed in shirts made from “Rotary Pagnes” (yes this exists! They are yellow, blue and red, covered with Rotary symbolism and stamped with District 9100) and carrying folders with Rotary logos. I pointed at my Rotary pin and felt embarrassed that I had completely forgotten to bring them the Collegeville Club flag…(I will have to mail this to them at some later date.)
With 6 flashlights pointed directly at my face, Angelique introduced me to club (Ephram has introduced me to her before the meeting) and then went, in archetypal Togolese fashion, on to her agenda, whose procedure appeared even more exaggerated than l normally perceive them at such gatherings, when combined with the formalities of Rotary (can you imagine? ) I squinted and smiled, introducing myself as Kira Costanza, Club Rotary de Collegeville, Pennsylvanie, classification Energie Solaire.
Angelique started with “Pensees du Jour” (Thoughts of the Day), and when no one answered, I decided that they should know now rather than later that when no one speaks up, it will always be me! I thanked them for inviting me and said something about being excited to tell them about my ideas for partnership between my club and theirs. Angelique then recounted the birthdays of members of the club that had taken place that week – none – while the others around the table chatted amongst themselves. Angelique then moved on to the next item on her agenda but was interrupted by the man sitting to my right, Horace (who I quickly learned might be the only one in the club who rivals my talkative-ness) loudly said that he hadn’t heard the birthday announcements. Byll, to my right, muttered that he had been too busy staring at me…Angelique smiled and said, ok, I will recount this week’s birthdays, and then stopped, took a breath and said: none. Everyone laughed.
When I met Ephram for the first time he told me that their club is tiny, but they are close. Recruitment is difficult in Kpalimé, where many are unfamiliar with Rotary and, therefore (as usual with something that is unknown or different) people think it is some kind of sect or otherwise mysterious faction...his favorite thing about Rotary? The opportunities that it has given him to travel throughout West Africa. What a great thing.
Halfway through the meeting, the lights came back on, drinks were served, and a TV in the corner of the room flashed back on to loud static, which no one but me seemed to notice…Angelique talked over it, reading an email out loud from the Rotary Foundation and asking Byll to give the weekly report. Byll kindly asked that we come back to him - which we never did.
I was then asked to present myself, my project and why I was there. I circulated SunPower Afrique materials, the letter in French signed by the president of my club in PA and my certificate of membership. I have given my “schpeel” so many times now that you would think that it has become so habitual that it risks appearing banal and impersonal – not so! Particularly here in Togo, particularly in the context of Rotary, where my passion, motivation and sincerity seem to shine through my yovo skin and light eyes. I do not take this for granted.
They asked many questions, each having their own personal interests of course, which I tried to circumvent (as usual…) and explain the larger vision of SunPower Afrique and my interests in collaborating with Rotary clubs in Togo, particularly in Kpalimé. We spoke at length, got to know each other a bit, and I was invited back next week (more than invited actually – told that as a Rotarian I am obligated to come back every week while I am here in Kpalimé!)
The club in Kpalimé in keen to form an official partnership with us in Collegeville, which is a great start to a collaboration with District 9100, allowing us to match funds through Rotary International. It will take time of course, but the initial seeds have been sown. I am also excited to help the club in Kpalimé recruit more members through an international partnership and exposure through SunPower Afrique (if I may be so vain…)
This morning I went to see Angelique at her restaurant, at her request, where she gave me a Rotary pagne. I am to have it made into a shirt for next week’s meeting.
In light of some recent “issues” with one of my partners here in Togo, making it even more difficult than usual to know who to trust (while I am never alone, and am forever grateful to my partners on all sides of the ocean, being a female yovo trying to pull off a big project in Africa is infinitely complex…), I am very happy to have met a group of individuals that I feel connected to and in whom I can authentically instill some confidence.
I will try to send some photos of us in our Rotary shirts next week. Hope all is well back at Mooreheads and see you soon! :)
In the bar, a small and empty room off of the lobby, the Rotarians started to trickle in at about 7:15. Soon the Rotary bell was placed on the table and the now familiar practice of hand shaking, snapping, nodding and comment cava-ing took place. I find it very special that no matter where in the world you find yourself, in Collegeville, PA or in Kpalimé, Togo, you can find this Rotary bell and the same vibe of comradery and routine.
The president of the club is Angelique, a friendly yet reserved woman who owns and operates a restaurant near Petit Suisse called Le Gourmet. Out of the 6 members, I was very surprised to learn that 3 are women! And even more surprised when I was introduced to Angelique as the president – who ever said that African Rotary clubs are not progressive have never been to Kpalimé.
All members of the club arrived at the meeting in full Rotary garb – meaning they were all dressed in shirts made from “Rotary Pagnes” (yes this exists! They are yellow, blue and red, covered with Rotary symbolism and stamped with District 9100) and carrying folders with Rotary logos. I pointed at my Rotary pin and felt embarrassed that I had completely forgotten to bring them the Collegeville Club flag…(I will have to mail this to them at some later date.)
With 6 flashlights pointed directly at my face, Angelique introduced me to club (Ephram has introduced me to her before the meeting) and then went, in archetypal Togolese fashion, on to her agenda, whose procedure appeared even more exaggerated than l normally perceive them at such gatherings, when combined with the formalities of Rotary (can you imagine? ) I squinted and smiled, introducing myself as Kira Costanza, Club Rotary de Collegeville, Pennsylvanie, classification Energie Solaire.
Angelique started with “Pensees du Jour” (Thoughts of the Day), and when no one answered, I decided that they should know now rather than later that when no one speaks up, it will always be me! I thanked them for inviting me and said something about being excited to tell them about my ideas for partnership between my club and theirs. Angelique then recounted the birthdays of members of the club that had taken place that week – none – while the others around the table chatted amongst themselves. Angelique then moved on to the next item on her agenda but was interrupted by the man sitting to my right, Horace (who I quickly learned might be the only one in the club who rivals my talkative-ness) loudly said that he hadn’t heard the birthday announcements. Byll, to my right, muttered that he had been too busy staring at me…Angelique smiled and said, ok, I will recount this week’s birthdays, and then stopped, took a breath and said: none. Everyone laughed.
When I met Ephram for the first time he told me that their club is tiny, but they are close. Recruitment is difficult in Kpalimé, where many are unfamiliar with Rotary and, therefore (as usual with something that is unknown or different) people think it is some kind of sect or otherwise mysterious faction...his favorite thing about Rotary? The opportunities that it has given him to travel throughout West Africa. What a great thing.
Halfway through the meeting, the lights came back on, drinks were served, and a TV in the corner of the room flashed back on to loud static, which no one but me seemed to notice…Angelique talked over it, reading an email out loud from the Rotary Foundation and asking Byll to give the weekly report. Byll kindly asked that we come back to him - which we never did.
I was then asked to present myself, my project and why I was there. I circulated SunPower Afrique materials, the letter in French signed by the president of my club in PA and my certificate of membership. I have given my “schpeel” so many times now that you would think that it has become so habitual that it risks appearing banal and impersonal – not so! Particularly here in Togo, particularly in the context of Rotary, where my passion, motivation and sincerity seem to shine through my yovo skin and light eyes. I do not take this for granted.
They asked many questions, each having their own personal interests of course, which I tried to circumvent (as usual…) and explain the larger vision of SunPower Afrique and my interests in collaborating with Rotary clubs in Togo, particularly in Kpalimé. We spoke at length, got to know each other a bit, and I was invited back next week (more than invited actually – told that as a Rotarian I am obligated to come back every week while I am here in Kpalimé!)
The club in Kpalimé in keen to form an official partnership with us in Collegeville, which is a great start to a collaboration with District 9100, allowing us to match funds through Rotary International. It will take time of course, but the initial seeds have been sown. I am also excited to help the club in Kpalimé recruit more members through an international partnership and exposure through SunPower Afrique (if I may be so vain…)
This morning I went to see Angelique at her restaurant, at her request, where she gave me a Rotary pagne. I am to have it made into a shirt for next week’s meeting.
In light of some recent “issues” with one of my partners here in Togo, making it even more difficult than usual to know who to trust (while I am never alone, and am forever grateful to my partners on all sides of the ocean, being a female yovo trying to pull off a big project in Africa is infinitely complex…), I am very happy to have met a group of individuals that I feel connected to and in whom I can authentically instill some confidence.
I will try to send some photos of us in our Rotary shirts next week. Hope all is well back at Mooreheads and see you soon! :)
Tuesday, August 11, 2009
10 August 2009: Moov-ing Backwards?
On the radio this morning the familiar crackling voice of PeaceFM announced that, due to a massive hike in taxes on their operations, Moov, the (only) independent cellphone service provider in Togo, will cease its operations in the country. Hours later, the logo, name and service bars disappeared from cellphones throughout Togo. Togocell, the state-run provider has once again retained its monopoly on telecommunications, having swiftly eliminated its competition with a stroke of the bureaucratic (and not so proverbial) pen.
To me this is very disappointing…what with my preconceived notions of democracy, free markets and unfettered capitalism… Inno just chuckled and said “quel comedie.” Togo, having taken leaps (understood in the proper context of course…) towards democratic systems of not only governance but economic growth in the past 10 years, seems to be stumbling. Interestingly, this is all happening months before elections in 2010. Is there more than one candidate? Definitely not. HOWEVER, I did watch a music video last night in which a Togolese rapper, S-Jev, defiantly reprimanded the government for the poverty and poor health of its population, deplorable infrastructure and corruption. Under the previous regime this would not have been allowed and S-Jev would have been imprisoned faster than he could have asked for another ball of fufu – so there is indeed an increased sense and semblance of civil liberties.
It seems however that this forward movement is being staved off in the world of commerce. Which is not necessarily good news for SunPower Afrique! I have, in my backpack, a photocopied decree from the Minister of Ports, citing that all solar equipment can be imported into the country without taxes. I have mentioned this before, but want to reiterate what a big deal this is for a country with no natural resources, that therefore relies hugely on import taxes. Once again I question my idealism – will a piece of paper in a yovo’s hands actually mean anything? If the government can snuff out Moov, it can surely make the work of a startup nonprofit quite challenging….I will be taking a tour of the Port of Lomé in the next few weeks, and am carefully calculating my approach towards the presentation of this document to the appropriate individual…
I have also been repeatedly told that my “recepisse” (my documentation to legally operate my business/NGO in Togo) is waiting for my signature at the Minister of Decentralization. I will go to find it on Friday – wish me luck!
* * *
After watching the evening news and asking everyone I see whether they think Moov will be back, it appears that the Togolese government is in the process of “negotiating” a new contract…we shall see…in the interim, those with the means to do so have all run out and bought Togocell sim cards.
It was an interesting day in Togo, not only this fiasco with Moov, but the government also unveiled its new passports, which have been issued in order to “modernize their travel documents.” All citizens wishing to leave the country must now buy a new passport (30,000CFA/about $60), as the old ones are no longer valid.
It poured rain for 3 hours yesterday afternoon, prohibiting me from getting back to CECAV-Avenir (I am telling you, you have never seen such a downpour…) Inno and I sat outside on wooden stools, enjoying the cool misty air, sharing a tiny glass or sodabi and talking about politics and mysticism. We talked about the attempted coup-d’état that took place 3 months ago, which now has the president’s brother and his assorted, foreign military wing, armed with Chinese rifles, imprisoned in Lomé. About the chain of corruption and theft that prevents bridges from being built and trickles down to even the most honest and well-intentioned citizens…about tradition and modernization and what lies in between.
Many potential investors and MBA advisors have told me I paint too rosy a picture of Togo – as a haven of democracy and liberalism in the midst of the corruption of West Africa. However, I always do my best to present an accurate description of this country, and I will continue to do so. This is Africa, and it is with hints of cynicism and heaps of idealism (both necessary to fully comprehend the complex dynamics of both culture and politics) that I believe in Togo. Two steps forward, one step back, mais CA VA ALLER.
To me this is very disappointing…what with my preconceived notions of democracy, free markets and unfettered capitalism… Inno just chuckled and said “quel comedie.” Togo, having taken leaps (understood in the proper context of course…) towards democratic systems of not only governance but economic growth in the past 10 years, seems to be stumbling. Interestingly, this is all happening months before elections in 2010. Is there more than one candidate? Definitely not. HOWEVER, I did watch a music video last night in which a Togolese rapper, S-Jev, defiantly reprimanded the government for the poverty and poor health of its population, deplorable infrastructure and corruption. Under the previous regime this would not have been allowed and S-Jev would have been imprisoned faster than he could have asked for another ball of fufu – so there is indeed an increased sense and semblance of civil liberties.
It seems however that this forward movement is being staved off in the world of commerce. Which is not necessarily good news for SunPower Afrique! I have, in my backpack, a photocopied decree from the Minister of Ports, citing that all solar equipment can be imported into the country without taxes. I have mentioned this before, but want to reiterate what a big deal this is for a country with no natural resources, that therefore relies hugely on import taxes. Once again I question my idealism – will a piece of paper in a yovo’s hands actually mean anything? If the government can snuff out Moov, it can surely make the work of a startup nonprofit quite challenging….I will be taking a tour of the Port of Lomé in the next few weeks, and am carefully calculating my approach towards the presentation of this document to the appropriate individual…
I have also been repeatedly told that my “recepisse” (my documentation to legally operate my business/NGO in Togo) is waiting for my signature at the Minister of Decentralization. I will go to find it on Friday – wish me luck!
* * *
After watching the evening news and asking everyone I see whether they think Moov will be back, it appears that the Togolese government is in the process of “negotiating” a new contract…we shall see…in the interim, those with the means to do so have all run out and bought Togocell sim cards.
It was an interesting day in Togo, not only this fiasco with Moov, but the government also unveiled its new passports, which have been issued in order to “modernize their travel documents.” All citizens wishing to leave the country must now buy a new passport (30,000CFA/about $60), as the old ones are no longer valid.
It poured rain for 3 hours yesterday afternoon, prohibiting me from getting back to CECAV-Avenir (I am telling you, you have never seen such a downpour…) Inno and I sat outside on wooden stools, enjoying the cool misty air, sharing a tiny glass or sodabi and talking about politics and mysticism. We talked about the attempted coup-d’état that took place 3 months ago, which now has the president’s brother and his assorted, foreign military wing, armed with Chinese rifles, imprisoned in Lomé. About the chain of corruption and theft that prevents bridges from being built and trickles down to even the most honest and well-intentioned citizens…about tradition and modernization and what lies in between.
Many potential investors and MBA advisors have told me I paint too rosy a picture of Togo – as a haven of democracy and liberalism in the midst of the corruption of West Africa. However, I always do my best to present an accurate description of this country, and I will continue to do so. This is Africa, and it is with hints of cynicism and heaps of idealism (both necessary to fully comprehend the complex dynamics of both culture and politics) that I believe in Togo. Two steps forward, one step back, mais CA VA ALLER.
Sunday, August 9, 2009
Sweet Home Togo
Kpalimé is the exactly the same. Except that the roads have been completely destroyed from flooding and rain. Even the main streets are a maze of potholes, ranging in size from a plate to a small house. It is interesting how this, my third time back, illuminates even more clearly the utter lack of progress and stagnancy of development…at FECECAV I can always see tiny steps forwards and small but significant inklings of growth, but on a larger scale, Togo stays in one place.
Le voyage was long…after a minor visa fiasco in New York (where I was barred from the airplane because I didn’t have a pre-purchased Ghanaian transit visa – which you used to be able to buy upon arrival in Accra – and had to spend an extra day in Manhattan kow-towing to the sluggish staff at the Ghanaian embassy…) I arrived in Accra on the morning of the 6th. I met a great girl on the place from a company called InfraCo, which does energy infrastructure projects in Africa – how fortuitous!
We traveled by bus to Ho, near the Togo border, where we piled into a classic African van, with a fractured windshield held together by a “Thank You Jesus” sticker, a back door propped open with piece of bamboo and a shell so rusted out that I was completed amazed (as usual) that with each pothole we didn’t all fall straight through. I am used to it now, but I still don’t understand the physics of these vehicles…how they run and stay in one piece. The mechanics here are literal magicians…
I have been in Kpalime for 3 days now, have met 2 yovo volunteers at FECECAV (one from SIDI, another development organization that send $$ to FECECAV at 6% interest and one from Kiva, a new fellow who immediately told me how much she hates Kpalime…) There are in fact many yovos here in Kpalime right now, harkening back to the days when Togo was a tourism hotspot. I am told that this is the “season of the Yovos” – aka summer vacation time. Hilarious.
I have eaten lots of fufu already (delicious! J) and talked extensively with Daniel (the CEO of FECECAV) and Aminou (my Kpalimé electrician and head of the solar team we will train during the pilot project.) I bought a motorcycle battery to hook up my solar panel demo, and it is currently chez le mecanicien charging up. Batteries here are bought without acid, and you must them take it to the mechanic to fill it up – where the mechanic removes some acid from another battery, mixes it with filthy water, tests it to see if it’s good, and, barehanded, spilling it all over his little brother’s feet and the oily ground of his workstation, adds it to the battery with a turkey baster. (I just tried in vain for 15 minutes to upload pictures of this, amongst a few others, but the internet connection is just not having it)
Everyone is impatient for the pilot project, and keep asking where is Mister Jon, when will we “installer les pannaux solaires”? I admire their trust in me and their endurance – not only because so many leave empty promises all over this continent, but also that nowhere but in Africa can I find this type of patience and resilience. I have made an impression on them and, since I am back again, this time with a panel, with documents to sign and posters to hang in their office, they are content to continue waiting for SunPower Afrique. I do not take it for granted and I will not let them down! Aminou as well, is so anxious to get started, and nervous that several solar panel installers have cropped up throughout the country (Chinese…) and that he will miss his chance. But he too trusts me and waits for his training – I continue to remember why we have decided work with him: his passion and understanding of solar in the context of his life and his country is exemplary and inspiring.
I am planning the next three weeks – pressured to get everything accomplished that I want to in such a short time, also allowing a week or so to travel north with Inno to meet his family and see more of the country. I am somewhat embarrassed to say that throughout my time in Togo, so unlike my adventurous self, I have never been North of Atakpame!
I will spend a week or so in Lome, to have my meetings with the Ministers of Decentralization, Small Business and Energy & Mining. I will also visit the Port of Lomé for a tour, and reconnect with M. Lare, my partner/consultant who currently has himself in quite a state, due to a misunderstanding between himself and Novinyo, another of my partners (a FECECAV manager). Something about “insulting his character” by not giving him a loan that falls far outside FECECAV’s average size for loan disbursal. I must go smooth this over in order to move forward…c’est l’Afrique quoi. Wish me luck.
I promised to keep my blog short this time, and while I’m sure you all long for my long-winded descriptions of the nuances of Togolese culture and the smell of burning plastic, I will spare you – this once :)
Will write again soon, of my plans and programs, and about the evolution of SunPower Afrique on the ground! As Daniel said to me, it becoming plus et plus réale(more and more real.)
Amitiés,
K
Le voyage was long…after a minor visa fiasco in New York (where I was barred from the airplane because I didn’t have a pre-purchased Ghanaian transit visa – which you used to be able to buy upon arrival in Accra – and had to spend an extra day in Manhattan kow-towing to the sluggish staff at the Ghanaian embassy…) I arrived in Accra on the morning of the 6th. I met a great girl on the place from a company called InfraCo, which does energy infrastructure projects in Africa – how fortuitous!
We traveled by bus to Ho, near the Togo border, where we piled into a classic African van, with a fractured windshield held together by a “Thank You Jesus” sticker, a back door propped open with piece of bamboo and a shell so rusted out that I was completed amazed (as usual) that with each pothole we didn’t all fall straight through. I am used to it now, but I still don’t understand the physics of these vehicles…how they run and stay in one piece. The mechanics here are literal magicians…
I have been in Kpalime for 3 days now, have met 2 yovo volunteers at FECECAV (one from SIDI, another development organization that send $$ to FECECAV at 6% interest and one from Kiva, a new fellow who immediately told me how much she hates Kpalime…) There are in fact many yovos here in Kpalime right now, harkening back to the days when Togo was a tourism hotspot. I am told that this is the “season of the Yovos” – aka summer vacation time. Hilarious.
I have eaten lots of fufu already (delicious! J) and talked extensively with Daniel (the CEO of FECECAV) and Aminou (my Kpalimé electrician and head of the solar team we will train during the pilot project.) I bought a motorcycle battery to hook up my solar panel demo, and it is currently chez le mecanicien charging up. Batteries here are bought without acid, and you must them take it to the mechanic to fill it up – where the mechanic removes some acid from another battery, mixes it with filthy water, tests it to see if it’s good, and, barehanded, spilling it all over his little brother’s feet and the oily ground of his workstation, adds it to the battery with a turkey baster. (I just tried in vain for 15 minutes to upload pictures of this, amongst a few others, but the internet connection is just not having it)
Everyone is impatient for the pilot project, and keep asking where is Mister Jon, when will we “installer les pannaux solaires”? I admire their trust in me and their endurance – not only because so many leave empty promises all over this continent, but also that nowhere but in Africa can I find this type of patience and resilience. I have made an impression on them and, since I am back again, this time with a panel, with documents to sign and posters to hang in their office, they are content to continue waiting for SunPower Afrique. I do not take it for granted and I will not let them down! Aminou as well, is so anxious to get started, and nervous that several solar panel installers have cropped up throughout the country (Chinese…) and that he will miss his chance. But he too trusts me and waits for his training – I continue to remember why we have decided work with him: his passion and understanding of solar in the context of his life and his country is exemplary and inspiring.
I am planning the next three weeks – pressured to get everything accomplished that I want to in such a short time, also allowing a week or so to travel north with Inno to meet his family and see more of the country. I am somewhat embarrassed to say that throughout my time in Togo, so unlike my adventurous self, I have never been North of Atakpame!
I will spend a week or so in Lome, to have my meetings with the Ministers of Decentralization, Small Business and Energy & Mining. I will also visit the Port of Lomé for a tour, and reconnect with M. Lare, my partner/consultant who currently has himself in quite a state, due to a misunderstanding between himself and Novinyo, another of my partners (a FECECAV manager). Something about “insulting his character” by not giving him a loan that falls far outside FECECAV’s average size for loan disbursal. I must go smooth this over in order to move forward…c’est l’Afrique quoi. Wish me luck.
I promised to keep my blog short this time, and while I’m sure you all long for my long-winded descriptions of the nuances of Togolese culture and the smell of burning plastic, I will spare you – this once :)
Will write again soon, of my plans and programs, and about the evolution of SunPower Afrique on the ground! As Daniel said to me, it becoming plus et plus réale(more and more real.)
Amitiés,
K
Thursday, July 2, 2009
7.5 Months…
...Is a long time to have been away from Togo. And on August 4th, when I fly back, through Accra, it will have been 9 months since my feet have been on the ground in Africa.
Last night I put my new blackberry down on top of my new netbook computer and had to do a double-take. Am I the same girl who wrapped herself in a pagne on the airplane and vowed never again to approach living beyond my means? What am I doing with these gadgets?
The longer I stay here in the US, the easier it is to slip back into the ways of selfishness and consumerism…I was born here, raised here, lived and live here. And am constantly struggling with why I suddenly have a love-hate relationship with everything I have ever known…
And the longer I stay here and work to grow the for-profit business, worry about who will be at the beach on Saturday, and who won’t, and how many more things I can’t get accomplished in a day, and how frustrated I am with the small business server and the congressperson who won’t vote to increase the solar share because it would cost PA ratepayers an additional 3cents on their annual utility bill…the more distant I feel from my project, from Togo, from Inno and Rogier and Akpene…from everything I was so driven by, in love with and smothered in when I returned from my first sejour au Togo, now well over a year ago.
Oui c'est complique, le balance me trahit…
The pace of life here in recent months (or all the time) would flabbergast anyone in Togo...I work all the time, at a frantic pace...tripping my way through a complex balancing act of policy advocacy, solar sales and non-profit business development. And go to Rotary meetings every Wedsneday and drive to NYC to see my sister and to LBI to see my friends and I love it...but would les Togolaises ever understand...?
I cannot wait to have an entire month to spend purely on Afrique work...my business plan is, at LONG last, almost in good shape, I have a budget in a complicated excel spreadsheet(thank you Danny and Rich Singer at RSVP) and I am starting to raise money! I hope that my trip will only spur the momentum, as I tackle some serious market analysis and outreach to develop my customer base of solar enthusiasts :) I will post a message with a more detailed description of my plans for August in the near future, and then off we go...
A bientot -
K
PS - Exciting! Thank you to Mike Armstrong, for filming and working with me on SunPower Afrique's first video...coming soon...
BECOME A FAN OF SUNPOWER AFRIQUE ON FACEBOOK: http://www.facebook.com/home.php#/pages/SunPower-Afrique/52677941699?ref=ts
Last night I put my new blackberry down on top of my new netbook computer and had to do a double-take. Am I the same girl who wrapped herself in a pagne on the airplane and vowed never again to approach living beyond my means? What am I doing with these gadgets?
The longer I stay here in the US, the easier it is to slip back into the ways of selfishness and consumerism…I was born here, raised here, lived and live here. And am constantly struggling with why I suddenly have a love-hate relationship with everything I have ever known…
And the longer I stay here and work to grow the for-profit business, worry about who will be at the beach on Saturday, and who won’t, and how many more things I can’t get accomplished in a day, and how frustrated I am with the small business server and the congressperson who won’t vote to increase the solar share because it would cost PA ratepayers an additional 3cents on their annual utility bill…the more distant I feel from my project, from Togo, from Inno and Rogier and Akpene…from everything I was so driven by, in love with and smothered in when I returned from my first sejour au Togo, now well over a year ago.
Oui c'est complique, le balance me trahit…
The pace of life here in recent months (or all the time) would flabbergast anyone in Togo...I work all the time, at a frantic pace...tripping my way through a complex balancing act of policy advocacy, solar sales and non-profit business development. And go to Rotary meetings every Wedsneday and drive to NYC to see my sister and to LBI to see my friends and I love it...but would les Togolaises ever understand...?
I cannot wait to have an entire month to spend purely on Afrique work...my business plan is, at LONG last, almost in good shape, I have a budget in a complicated excel spreadsheet(thank you Danny and Rich Singer at RSVP) and I am starting to raise money! I hope that my trip will only spur the momentum, as I tackle some serious market analysis and outreach to develop my customer base of solar enthusiasts :) I will post a message with a more detailed description of my plans for August in the near future, and then off we go...
A bientot -
K
PS - Exciting! Thank you to Mike Armstrong, for filming and working with me on SunPower Afrique's first video...coming soon...
BECOME A FAN OF SUNPOWER AFRIQUE ON FACEBOOK: http://www.facebook.com/home.php#/pages/SunPower-Afrique/52677941699?ref=ts
Tuesday, May 12, 2009
The Wonderful World of Rotary
For the past month and a half, I have spent a good deal of time exploring Rotary International and have been attending the weekly meetings of the Collegeville Rotary Club. I have also attended 2 meetings at the Bryn Mawr Rotary Club, including last night where I was the featured speaker. After evaluating the committment (time-wise and financially), I decided that joining the club would be a great opportunity and filled out an application. Now I wait for the Collegeville Club to vote me in (I hope!)
Rotary is an excellent mechanism for me to get the word out about SunPower Afrique to a large network of informed and interested individuals. While I am almost always the youngest (and usually one of 2 women in the room..) I greatly enjoy the comradery and being surrounded by people who are socially and philanthropically minded.
My project has generated much interest amongst the Rotarians I have met, and, after doing a bit of research and networking, have learned that the fundraising opportunties available for my project through Rotary are truly endless...importantly, Monsieur LARE, my lead solar technician and trainer in Togo, is also a Rotarian! He actually founded the Rotary Club in Dapaong (in Northern Togo) and has contacts at Rotary Clubs throughout Togo and here in the US. I am incredibly excited to begin linking up Rotarians around the world...Kpalime and Togo, sister cities!
In general, my presentations have been successful in translating my passion for SunPower Afrique to my audiences. I hope that my fellow Rotarians will be sufficiently inspired as to help me leverage this project with Rotary as much as possible.
Today I received this write-up from the Bryn Mawr Rotary "Coghorn" newsletter, about my presentation at their club last night:
PROGRAM
Chm. Bud Ahrens introduced Kira Costanza and her program “Sunpower Afrique” that she hopes to introduce in Togo, West Africa during the next year. Kira presented a power point program that included a bill of materials, for this $100,000.00 Solar Energy system for empowering the Microfinance Institutions in Togo. Kira had spent some time in Toga working with KIVA and FECECAV which dispenses very small (micro) loans to the locals for business and finance in their own communities. The pictures of course were worth a thousand words but the show gave us a great insight into how the people live, how they work and how the solar power systems are set up. They suffer from a severe energy crisis and have little or no utility type power available. The solar systems will permit some lighting, use of computers and telephone connections at reduced rates. The equipment is to be purchased here in the US and shipped as a package to Togo. Their electricians will assemble the Solar Power units under Kira’s guidance. This training will permit later installations about the town. There were a lot of questions so the program definitely caught our collective attention. Kira joined Collegeville Rotary (Dist. 7430) and will be traveling around her District and ours (Dist. 7450) in her effort to fund this Solar Power Afrique Energy system. Thanks to Kira for a very interesting and informative program.
Thanks to the Bryn Mawr Rotary Club for having me as a presenter last night - I look forward to continuing to work with District 7450 to fundraise for Afrique in the coming months!
Rotary is an excellent mechanism for me to get the word out about SunPower Afrique to a large network of informed and interested individuals. While I am almost always the youngest (and usually one of 2 women in the room..) I greatly enjoy the comradery and being surrounded by people who are socially and philanthropically minded.
My project has generated much interest amongst the Rotarians I have met, and, after doing a bit of research and networking, have learned that the fundraising opportunties available for my project through Rotary are truly endless...importantly, Monsieur LARE, my lead solar technician and trainer in Togo, is also a Rotarian! He actually founded the Rotary Club in Dapaong (in Northern Togo) and has contacts at Rotary Clubs throughout Togo and here in the US. I am incredibly excited to begin linking up Rotarians around the world...Kpalime and Togo, sister cities!
In general, my presentations have been successful in translating my passion for SunPower Afrique to my audiences. I hope that my fellow Rotarians will be sufficiently inspired as to help me leverage this project with Rotary as much as possible.
Today I received this write-up from the Bryn Mawr Rotary "Coghorn" newsletter, about my presentation at their club last night:
PROGRAM
Chm. Bud Ahrens introduced Kira Costanza and her program “Sunpower Afrique” that she hopes to introduce in Togo, West Africa during the next year. Kira presented a power point program that included a bill of materials, for this $100,000.00 Solar Energy system for empowering the Microfinance Institutions in Togo. Kira had spent some time in Toga working with KIVA and FECECAV which dispenses very small (micro) loans to the locals for business and finance in their own communities. The pictures of course were worth a thousand words but the show gave us a great insight into how the people live, how they work and how the solar power systems are set up. They suffer from a severe energy crisis and have little or no utility type power available. The solar systems will permit some lighting, use of computers and telephone connections at reduced rates. The equipment is to be purchased here in the US and shipped as a package to Togo. Their electricians will assemble the Solar Power units under Kira’s guidance. This training will permit later installations about the town. There were a lot of questions so the program definitely caught our collective attention. Kira joined Collegeville Rotary (Dist. 7430) and will be traveling around her District and ours (Dist. 7450) in her effort to fund this Solar Power Afrique Energy system. Thanks to Kira for a very interesting and informative program.
Thanks to the Bryn Mawr Rotary Club for having me as a presenter last night - I look forward to continuing to work with District 7450 to fundraise for Afrique in the coming months!
Tuesday, April 14, 2009
April Update: Busy Times!
It’s been a while since my loquacious expressions (some may call it pontification, I prefer to think of it as enthusiasm) have graced the pages of this blog…not that I haven’t been talking myself blue in the face about SunPower Afrique, Togo and solar to anyone who will listen over the past few months.
I’d like to take a few moments to send out a quick update and document SunPower Afrique’s, and my, recent progress. As usual, there is never enough room in cyberspace...
Most of my time these days is spent working in the exhilarating, frustrating and fast-moving PA solar industry. SunPower Builders has grown exponentially over the past year and we expect to see that trend continue. We have hired new installers and office staff, and are well poised for the solar boom…if it ever arrives in full force…The solar industry in PA struggles, and has historically struggled, by being a policy-driven one. If legislature exists that subsidizes solar, bringing down the cost for the average consumer, the solar industry flourishes (à la Jimmy Carter) – when these subsidies, such as tax credits and rebates, are removed (à la Ronald Reagan), the industry screeches to a halt. We are thankfully returning to the former’s policies, thanks in great part to the new administration (as well as rising energy costs and decreasing costs of solar modules.)
I and SunPower Builders have been featured twice in the past week in the Philadelphia Inquirer, highlighting our efforts to push legislation through the bureaucracy of Harrisburg so that we can start installing systems and creating green jobs! An enthusiastic reporter has given great recent attention to our industry and the issues that it faces, which has been quite exciting. My work as Secretary of MSEIA (Mid-Atlantic Solar Energy Industries Association) has also kept me right at the center of policy development and advocacy for solar in PA, which I surprisingly enjoy, considering the fact that I left the UN thinking I would never touch anything with the word “policy” in it again with a 10 foot pole. If you are interested, you can find more information about this work on SunPower Builders’ blog I post information on PA solar policy and SunPower’s place in it. The link is: http://www.sunpowerbuilders.blogspot.com/
In my “free time” I continue to live and breathe SunPower Afrique…I take every opportunity to speak about the organization and its goals, and get its name out there to whomever will listen. I recently gave a talk at the Free Library in Philadelphia which was quite well attended and gave me the opportunity to stand in front of a room full of people, most of whom were NOT familiar with my project, and explain my passion for it as well as make it accessible. I also gave a presentation a few Saturday's ago at an event called "Girls Exploring Tomorrow's Technology", where I talked about my project to groups of high school girls, parents and teachers - I now have a 16-year-old who wants to intern with me this summer! I have also joined the Rotary Club of Collegeville (yes, really and no, I am not a 74 year old man) where I hope to garner support for my project through Rotary International and other fundraising mechanisms. Any chance I get, I put a small article in a local newsletter or other PR/outreach network, hoping that the right person will pick it up…
…and give me $100 thousand dollars :)
No really, the fundraising is ongoing! We ARE raising money, little by little, un peu et un peu as my Togolese counterparts would say, and that’s the way it should be. I am re-learning the value of patience, which I seem to have forgotten quite quickly now that both feet are firmly back on US soil.
Our tanking economy and new tax policies (under which charitable donations by the extremely wealthy actually get less of a deduction than they used to…I love you Obama but you are killing me…) are making fundraising quite challenging but I remain optimistic! In light of the circumstances, I understand that I will have to search outside the easiest fundraising channels and focus on grant-writing and other, more burdensome initiatives such as investment solicitations and the like. All of which I see truly as a blessing in disguise, as it is forcing me to write and re-write business, strategic and operational plans, re-think the sustainability of my financial model and otherwise perpetually improve upon why I believe people should donate money to SunPower Afrique. All of which is quite useful.
However, I miss Togo…it has been far too long since my nose has been filled with scent of burning plastic, my mouth and tummy full of fufu and grain alcohol, and I am even starting to long for the squads of yovo-shrieking tots.
While I do not anticipate raising the full budget for the pilot project by this summer, I will to return to Togo in July or August, to see Inno, cultivate my network on the ground and maintain my motivation and optimism. If one spends too long away, one loses sight of what is real and what we are truly working towards. 
Thanks to all who have supported me thus far, please keep it coming! Please also be in touch if you have any ideas for me in regard to fundraising, business development or otherwise. You know I’ll be happy to chat with you :)
Until then –
K
PS - A quick shout out to my dear friend and mentor Rhoda, who always always read to the bottom on this blog. I will miss you and your brilliant, insightful commentary.
I’d like to take a few moments to send out a quick update and document SunPower Afrique’s, and my, recent progress. As usual, there is never enough room in cyberspace...
Most of my time these days is spent working in the exhilarating, frustrating and fast-moving PA solar industry. SunPower Builders has grown exponentially over the past year and we expect to see that trend continue. We have hired new installers and office staff, and are well poised for the solar boom…if it ever arrives in full force…The solar industry in PA struggles, and has historically struggled, by being a policy-driven one. If legislature exists that subsidizes solar, bringing down the cost for the average consumer, the solar industry flourishes (à la Jimmy Carter) – when these subsidies, such as tax credits and rebates, are removed (à la Ronald Reagan), the industry screeches to a halt. We are thankfully returning to the former’s policies, thanks in great part to the new administration (as well as rising energy costs and decreasing costs of solar modules.)
I and SunPower Builders have been featured twice in the past week in the Philadelphia Inquirer, highlighting our efforts to push legislation through the bureaucracy of Harrisburg so that we can start installing systems and creating green jobs! An enthusiastic reporter has given great recent attention to our industry and the issues that it faces, which has been quite exciting. My work as Secretary of MSEIA (Mid-Atlantic Solar Energy Industries Association) has also kept me right at the center of policy development and advocacy for solar in PA, which I surprisingly enjoy, considering the fact that I left the UN thinking I would never touch anything with the word “policy” in it again with a 10 foot pole. If you are interested, you can find more information about this work on SunPower Builders’ blog I post information on PA solar policy and SunPower’s place in it. The link is: http://www.sunpowerbuilders.blogspot.com/In my “free time” I continue to live and breathe SunPower Afrique…I take every opportunity to speak about the organization and its goals, and get its name out there to whomever will listen. I recently gave a talk at the Free Library in Philadelphia which was quite well attended and gave me the opportunity to stand in front of a room full of people, most of whom were NOT familiar with my project, and explain my passion for it as well as make it accessible. I also gave a presentation a few Saturday's ago at an event called "Girls Exploring Tomorrow's Technology", where I talked about my project to groups of high school girls, parents and teachers - I now have a 16-year-old who wants to intern with me this summer! I have also joined the Rotary Club of Collegeville (yes, really and no, I am not a 74 year old man) where I hope to garner support for my project through Rotary International and other fundraising mechanisms. Any chance I get, I put a small article in a local newsletter or other PR/outreach network, hoping that the right person will pick it up…
…and give me $100 thousand dollars :)
No really, the fundraising is ongoing! We ARE raising money, little by little, un peu et un peu as my Togolese counterparts would say, and that’s the way it should be. I am re-learning the value of patience, which I seem to have forgotten quite quickly now that both feet are firmly back on US soil.
Our tanking economy and new tax policies (under which charitable donations by the extremely wealthy actually get less of a deduction than they used to…I love you Obama but you are killing me…) are making fundraising quite challenging but I remain optimistic! In light of the circumstances, I understand that I will have to search outside the easiest fundraising channels and focus on grant-writing and other, more burdensome initiatives such as investment solicitations and the like. All of which I see truly as a blessing in disguise, as it is forcing me to write and re-write business, strategic and operational plans, re-think the sustainability of my financial model and otherwise perpetually improve upon why I believe people should donate money to SunPower Afrique. All of which is quite useful.
However, I miss Togo…it has been far too long since my nose has been filled with scent of burning plastic, my mouth and tummy full of fufu and grain alcohol, and I am even starting to long for the squads of yovo-shrieking tots.
While I do not anticipate raising the full budget for the pilot project by this summer, I will to return to Togo in July or August, to see Inno, cultivate my network on the ground and maintain my motivation and optimism. If one spends too long away, one loses sight of what is real and what we are truly working towards.
Thanks to all who have supported me thus far, please keep it coming! Please also be in touch if you have any ideas for me in regard to fundraising, business development or otherwise. You know I’ll be happy to chat with you :)Until then –
K
PS - A quick shout out to my dear friend and mentor Rhoda, who always always read to the bottom on this blog. I will miss you and your brilliant, insightful commentary.
Friday, March 20, 2009
The New SunPower Afrique.org!
I am so pleased and proud to announce the launch of the brand new, improved and quite magnificent (if I do say so myself...) www.sunpowerafrique.org !
The site features all new text and content, is much more user friendly and accesible and, importantly, hosts a unique and effective contribution page.
The "Gallery" section includes photo galleries from my time spent in Togo, highlighting our Togolese partners and friends, as well as photos of the microfinance clients who will benefit from SunPower Afrique's programs. The site also includes a link to this blog, which I will continue to update frequently.
A heartfelt thank you to the hugely talented and motivated Peg and Mather at Web-Wis-Dom, who went above and beyond our initial scope of work to create this fantastic website.
In other news, I am applying for a Volunteer Service Grant through Rotary International, to return to Togo this summer to continue SunPower Afrique's project planning.
Merci et a bientot!
K
Wednesday, February 11, 2009
The 501(c)(3) Saga Draws to a Close...
Today SunPower Afrique filed its 501(c)(3) Tax-Exempt Status Application with the IRS! With 501(c)(3) status, all donations made to SunPower Afrique will be tax-exempt.
This is a very exciting day, and my lawyers have informed me that we should hear from the IRS within a few months. We have worked long and hard on this application and are confident that we will get a favorable determination.
HOWEVER, all donations made to the organization at this time are tax-deductible since we submitted the application within 27 months of the date of incorporation (as long as we submit it within 27 months and the organization is eventually granted 501(c)(3) status, regardless of how long it takes for that to come through, deductibility is retroactive to the date of incorporation.)
In other developments, I have created a Facebook page for SunPower Afrique and, as soon as we are granted our 501(c)(3) status, we can start raising money on the Facebook! This is a great opportunity for both fundraising and networking.
You can find it here:
http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1397320930&ref=name#/pages/SunPower-Afrique/52677941699?ref=ts
You should all go and become fans!
I am also working with web designers on revamping the SunPower Afrique website and should have the new and improved site up within a month or so.
Stay tuned...
This is a very exciting day, and my lawyers have informed me that we should hear from the IRS within a few months. We have worked long and hard on this application and are confident that we will get a favorable determination.
HOWEVER, all donations made to the organization at this time are tax-deductible since we submitted the application within 27 months of the date of incorporation (as long as we submit it within 27 months and the organization is eventually granted 501(c)(3) status, regardless of how long it takes for that to come through, deductibility is retroactive to the date of incorporation.)
In other developments, I have created a Facebook page for SunPower Afrique and, as soon as we are granted our 501(c)(3) status, we can start raising money on the Facebook! This is a great opportunity for both fundraising and networking.
You can find it here:
http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1397320930&ref=name#/pages/SunPower-Afrique/52677941699?ref=ts
You should all go and become fans!
I am also working with web designers on revamping the SunPower Afrique website and should have the new and improved site up within a month or so.
Stay tuned...
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