17 June, 2010
Our plane bounced into Lomé 2 hours late, and to my shock and awe, all 6 of our suitcases, backpacks and boxes chugged around the groaning belt within 10 minutes. I could not believe it. As per usual, zipped side pockets had been opened by curious fingers and greedy eyes, but all cargo remained intact. Baggage – check.
My heart pounded as we approached the xray machine, through which all baggage passes before leaving the airport, and nearly popped out of my chest when I saw the same beady eyes of the customs officer who held my solar panels hostage last December. I ducked my eyes, and somehow, by some magnificent stroke of luck he patted his colleague on the back, yawned and turned into his office (for his customary hourly nap.) My anxiety returned however when another customs officer, the equally hostile woman with whom I had haggled over and over, shrieked, “Eh! Toi encore?!” (You again?!) I smiled and said, “Yes! I am back to help more people use electricity here in Togo! And I have all of my documents in order!” She looked me up and down, looked wearily at the pile of boxes sitting in front of us, and waved me away. I imagine she was simply too lackluster to deal with it. I’ll take it. Customs – check.
Novinyo and Ametepe greeted us outside the baggage area, the hot humid air infiltrating our clothes and skin. Mutually thrilled to see each other as usual, we hugged, shook, snapped and greeted our way out of the airport. Jon and Ron were hysterical to see all of our luggage jammed into the tiny trunk and backseat of Novinyo’s Audi, and then became incredulous when we were instructed to squeeze ourselves into the car as well. I wasn’t surprised of course Smooth arrival and reunion with my beloved Togolese counterparts – check.
We spent the next 2 days in Lomé, buying various supplies such as a hammer drill with the correct voltage and a Togolese extension cord. The owner of the electrical shop in which we bought the drill had a Deka battery and Conergy PV module for sale! Novinyo, always the eager and opportunistic entrepreneur, immediately began excitedly discussing with him the posssiblities of distributorship. While often overwhelming, especially in Lomé, the potential for this project in Togo is off the charts.
On the morning of the 18th we went to visit our friends at Maersk, to bring our container of the port, load it onto a large truck (which they call here “Titan” pronounced “Teetan” – I don’t know why but I find this absolutely hilarious) and make our way to Kpalimé. Facile non?
Not so…
A certain Maersk employee, with whom I struggled to communicate from the states and had significant doubts in regard to his ability to smoothly carry out this timely operation (mostly due to his arrogant attitude, which, of course, is coupled with the fact that his office is chilled by a sweating air conditioner) immediately wiped the smile off my face that had not faded since I first saw Novinyo’s face. He had not explained the fact that, upon its arrival in Togo, the port and Maersk require at least 3 days to “examine the cargo” and “do the paperwork” to release it. Had I known, we would have arrived 3 days later! To top it all off, it was Friday. No work on Saturday, no work on Sunday, and Monday was a holiday (Togolese memorial day for those that died in the war of independence.) I was furious, but, as I have learned, bit my tongue and negotiated to get the container as quickly as possible. Jon, never quite so reserved, pushed these proud gentlemen to their limit, but, after taking its toll of my level of stress, was instrumental in explaining the desperate need for the equipment by the following Wednesday at the latest. They refused to promise Wednesday, but said they would do their best and “most likely we would have it by Thursday. What could we do…?
Begrudgingly we decided to head to Kpalimé without our panels, inverters, wiring, batteries, everything…we would start the training and return for the container the next week. See you Wednesday I said, and they forced a shifty smile and said, no promises Yovo.
Novinyo leant us his car and found us a driver, to take us to Kpalimé with our pile of baggage, and then return the same day with his vehicle. I told Ron and Jon we were headed home. I immediately fell asleep for the entire ride down the familiar trip from the capital to the foot of Togo’s majestic mountainous border with Ghana.
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